Ash Tree from WoodCentral
| Joseph O'Brien, USDA Forest Service, bugwood.org
discussion thread came from a woodworker who is trying to save his
ash tree from the Emerald Ash Borer -- and wondering it's still
savable. - Editor
have an ash tree that I`m trying to save. I had it treated a couple
of years ago for the borer and, so far, it is still leafing out good,
but one thing that happened this year is the bark in a couple of
spots is coming off -- almost looks like a shagbark hickory tree --,
but in other areas it seems to be tight to the tree like it should
be, at least for now. Is this a sign of its demise? Can I do anything
for it to help keep it? I`d like to keep it." - Larry
a clarifying question, it emerged that he new the tree had indeed
been previously infected -- but was wondering what that meant for the
current situation. - Editor
you see little tiny holes in the bark?? That's a sign of the borer.
There is a chainsaw operating in the background as I type this....an
infested ash tree." - Roger L.
sorry I wasn`t real straight. It was infested, but the ash borer
treatment must have killed them off a couple of years ago when it was
treated. But, like I said, the last two years the tree looked just
like it wasn`t infested. But maybe this is what happens when the
borer gets killed off. I hope I can keep it going." - Larry
had some suggestions of what to do and how to treat the tree,
including how they're fighting to save the ash trees in their area. -
wouldn't surprise me if it took two seasons to find the bark coming
off in patches. For any tree, one of the best treatments is to kill
as much turf as you can: to make the trees happy, start at the trunk
and go to the property line, and then put down a layer of wood chips.
You can find plenty of them. Call any arborist and they'll dump for
free -- don't pay. If you decide to buy mulch, you'll likely get
stuff that came from a tub grinder which will be a bit finer. Be sure
to NEVER let the mulch pile against the trunk. Think donuts, not
volcanoes." - Tom D.
If you had borer, then borer is in your area. If it's
in your area, you could get re-infested. You said you treated a
couple of years ago, how long was should that treatment last? A
couple of years? Longer? What was the treatment?
A good arborist
may be able to tell you if your tree is savable or not (probably at
some cost for the examination)." - Ron P.
a forester that does make sick tree calls, I'd interested in what
product they used that would last for several years. I only know of a
yearly treatment and a spray-on that last a few months, if that long.
Timing of the borers and spray are important and difficult to figure
out. This year everything is 3 weeks plus ahead of most seasonal
things." - Dale L.
area (Chicago suburbs) is presently under attack by the Emerald Ash
Borer which, left unchecked, will destroy the ash population. I have
begun a program of annual treatment of our ash trees, along with the
city's treatment of the ash trees in the parkway. The city uses a
soil injection method, whereas I use a perimeter soak using a Bayer
product containing Merit (Imidacloprid). I've spoken to a couple
arborists who generally agree that the ground soak method works on
trees that are smaller than 50-inches circumference. Above that, the
tree should be injected directly. The injection method has an
advertised life of two years before retreatment. The soil injection
and soil soak method has to be done annually. I can't comment on your
bark situation, but the symptoms of a tree in trouble generally
include a die-off of the upper crown growth and also an increase in
the appearance of lower trunk area suckers. There are many
communities in our area that have begun an aggressive campaign to
kill these borers. The die-off of ash trees in the Michigan area was
devastating." - Tim G.
Oftentimes, a woodworker's shop goes
by the alias of "garage." Which means, when building a new
one, that questions of what to use for the walls when it's a new
construction take on an added importance. - Editor
to consider interior wall material (or not). My new building will
have a 28x28 garage area. To install an interior wall or not to
install? If I do, I will insulate the wall, just in case... I will
also have a 16x28 insulated shop room that will have finished
interior walls. Most likely choices of wall material are drywall or
OSB, based on cost. I will use several sections of 1/4"
pegboard, but plan to build those separately over 2x2 frames to keep
peg hardware out of contact with the insulation. What do you see as
pros and cons of these. Is there a better, fairly economical choice
for workshop walls?" - Joe P.
got some differing opinions as to which option was better. - Editor
OSB. Pretty cheap. Not necessarily pretty though. Great for screwing
light/medium hangers/shelves/brackets to. Withstands the shop
environment much better than drywall. Quicker, too. OSB
also absorbs sound a little bit better than drywall, which does a
good job of reflecting it. Hang, prime with oil-based primer, then
paint white or off-white with a semigloss latex paint (easier to
clean than flat). Failure to paint will allow it to continue to
darken, and require more lighting up front, and increasing down the
road. Drywall is for living rooms. It's a shop. Uniform installation
of the OSB, along with a nice paint job, will make a nice wall. Mine
is mostly covered with cabinets, fixtures, clamps, display boards,
pictures. Your eye is drawn to that stuff." - Pete
of my shop walls are cinder block -- so they don't count. The east
wall is 1/2" plywood. I chose plywood over OSB because I didn't
want to look at the painted OSB. I can hang anything anywhere. It
is slightly more expensive than OSB -- more so if you think of all
the walls you have to cover. I will say that the plywood was a LOT
easier to paint." - J.L.
walls (all of 'em) are woodgrained look pegboard. Fully insulated.
I've got a lot of accessories and some tools hanging within reach of
specific power tools.
Ceiling is 1/2" sheetrock painted
12" X 12" cvt tile on the floor."
just finished my basement shop, and used an OSB panel called
Smartside panels. It has a woodgrain finish and is V-grooved. It's
better than drywall, in my opinion, since you can hang things from it
without necessarily hitting a stud." - Paul B.
advantage to OSB Is that you can hang certain kinds of stuff anywhere
-- you don't need to find a stud. Not heavy stuff, mind you, but
light brackets, etc. My next shop will have walls of OSB painted
white." - Bruce
Drywall over 1/4" Plywood. This is what I have in my shop -- the
plywood keeps the drywall from getting damaged and also allows you to
hang anything anywhere without worrying about hitting a stud." -
woodworker's main concern was the temperature related to each wall
option. - Editor
have drywall and it ads value to the shop, is more fireproof, and is
fun to do, if you like that kind of thing. I live in a cold climate,
and one problem with drywall is that it is always cold. I have my
doubts about insulation, what really seems to matter is whether the
material is cold. I have a lot of thermal windows, but if you put
your hand on them they are all somewhat cold, therefore if you have
enough windows the room is cold. But that sleazy plastic film they
sell to cover windows is always warm to the touch. 4x4 of warm
plastic, makes you wonder what good all that gas and reflective foil
is really doing if the result is still cold to the touch. Same
problem with drywall, it is always cold to the touch. So another time
I would consider OSB. One downside to me is the stuff usually
offgasses a long time and smells bad. If I had any confidence it had
good glue, I would be a lot happier, but it is a commodity product so
you don't know what you are getting. - Tom D.
woodworker had an interesting response to the temperature concern,
based on his brother's experience with chemicals and temperatures. -
is not a good indicator. My brother works with some interesting
chemicals and materials, all related to silicone and silicone
products. One of those materials is a ceramic that is similar to the
ceramic tiles found on the space shuttles. This ceramic can be placed
in an industrial oven, heated through and through to 1,500ºF, then
removed from the oven with bare hands!
The reason is that the ceramic has such a high insulation value that
it simply does not transfer its heat to your skin fast enough for it
to burn -- the body can dissipate the heat at the very slow rate it
is being transferred to the skin, even though a thermometer would
still register the very high temperature." - Jason R.
other responders raised concerns about fire safety and codes -- and
suggestions for French cleats. - Editor
I were building a shop with wood frame walls, I would put drywall
(for fire reasons) over 1/2" ply with insulation behind it. No
matter what, even if you don't add heat/air, insulate any wall you
cover up, it just makes sense. Run any electrical you may want, too.
For the garage portion, you could start by doing the back wall
(usually where the workbench is and need for outlets, etc.), and then
doing a another wall every six months or so as time and money
allowed." - Jason W.
debated for a while -- then chose drywall. I built my shop (30' X 30'
with 10' ceiling) about seven years ago with 2X6 walls on 16"
center. I used French cleats to hang all my cabinets. Some of these
have a few hundred pounds of tools / supplies inside and absolutely
no problems. I did over insulate -- and covered the studs with
plastic prior to installing the drywall. I grant you it is easy to
mar -- but also the easiest to repair! I don't think the drywall is
any more 'noisy' than OSB, and it is much more fireproof (and, in my
humble opinion, looks a whole lot better). If I wanted to hang
pegboard it would be no problem with French cleats and spacers. When
I built the shop I had custom trusses built, which allowed me to have
an upstairs room. I installed a furnace and central air upstairs and
store most of my wood there. So far, my heating and air conditioning
bills have been very low (in north central Indiana), so I am quite
happy with my decision." - Larry C.
in an unattached building, I was required, by local code, to use
drywall. I could have put OSB over it, but the drywall had to be in
place. Actually I like the look of the drywall better, and, like
Larry, I use French cleats for hanging everything on the walls. You
might want to check local zoning and insurance regulations before
making your final decision." - Ron J.