Jig from WoodCentral
woodworker had seen some solutions for his current woodworking
challenge -- but he didn't exactly like any of them. So, he posted
his query in an online forum and waited for the advice. - Editor
have seen many circle-cutting
jigs for the band saw and routers, etc. My problem is, I do not want
to drill a pivot hole in the bottom of my workpiece. Any ideas? I
thought about a block with a hole with double-stick tape, but
centering the block and adding blocks so the work won't tilt down
seem difficult." - Brian
couple of suggestions came through. - Editor
than using a small block, attach a piece of 3/4 plywood large enough
to prevent the piece from tilting. If you want to save on the ply,
cut strips and tape them on in an 'X' pattern with one long and two
short pieces with a hole in the long piece." - Stuart J.
thought: how about a router pattern bit and a template? Tape or
attach the template to the workpiece and use a router table. I have a
couple of patterns that I have made for various pieces of furniture.
I rough trim them and then use the pattern bit to get them to the
exact size and shape." - JL
a comment about the pattern bit method. - Editor
have used this method successfully in the past; however, twice, while
working on a circle and an ovalm I had it blow out as the pattern bit
rounded its way into the end grain. It's a lot of work to make the
pattern, glue up the blank, and in both cases I had to start from
scratch." - Mark
a few more suggestions. - Editor
you have a lathe? If so, you could turn what amounts to an annulus
from thin stock, tape it to your workpiece and use a router with a
collar that fits in the annulus. I can explain it further , if you're
interested." - Eliot D
can mark the circle with compasses and cut it freehand just outside
the line. Finish it off to the line with a sander. Alternatively, cut
a full-size pattern from scrap ply, MDF or whatever with the pivot
hole and tape the workpiece on top. This way the edge is fully
supported and does not wobble." - Jesper
was going to suggest cutting a similar piece out of scrap and taping
it to the bottom like Jesper did, but why not dill a hole in the
scrap, double-stick tape it to the bottom of your workpiece and cut
both at the same time? That way the edge of your piece is supported
and your should get even less chipout." - Barry I.
what do you think, eZine readers? Do you have even more suggestions
for a circle jig? Or another way of doing things in the shop that
thinks beyond the "regular way"? - Editor
Thing I've Done to My Pipe Clamps from WoodCentral
discussion, too, took a different look at something in the shop: in
this case, a staple shop supply that the woodworker retrofitted to
fit his needs. - Editor
have maybe 15 pipe clamps that I have collected for the 40-some years
I have been doing woodworking. There are a couple of different brands
and styles. The manufacturer changed them over the years, and some
have a foot on them and many don't. Recently I had some scraps of
Baltic birch plywood left over, so I made wooden jaw liners for them.
Cut them to about 5" by 2", drilled about an 1- 1/4"
hole for the pipe, rounded all the edges (even the holes) with a
roundover bit, and screwed them to the jaws. Had to drill holes in
the jaws for the screws, but it was easy, the metal was fairly soft.
If the screws poked through, I filed them flush. This turns out to be
a significant improvement in handling the clamps. Now they all will
sit up, at the same height, the handles clear the table, you don't
have to use cauls, and when you install them from the top they will
sit up in that direction too and the handles clear the table. Wax or
otherwise 'glue-proof' the jaws. Make a few spares. Make the hole
loose so as not to bind. A little wider would be OK or better. Solid
wood may work as well, but the [Baltic birch] was too pretty to throw
away. These are holding up well." - Barry I.
response, he got a slight warning - and another clamping suggestion.
if you file the protruding screws, they can still poke out. Just use
shorter ones." - Alex G.
used to do a lot of interiors (kitchens, libraries, etc.) that
required multiple panel glue-ups. I devised a sawhorse system that
included racks screwed to the tops of equal-height sawhorses, with
rectangular slots for our Wetzler bar clamps and 1" half-circle
cutouts for our Jorgies and other 3/4" pipe clamps. The cutouts
were spaced on about 6" centers, so you could position clamps
effectively for almost any length of glue-up. Our racks were about 6'
long, so you could glue up several panels at a time, then just lift
them off and stand them against the wall to dry." - Ellis W.