Circle Jig from WoodCentral

This woodworker had seen some solutions for his current woodworking challenge -- but he didn't exactly like any of them. So, he posted his query in an online forum and waited for the advice. - Editor

"I have seen many circle-cutting jigs for the band saw and routers, etc. My problem is, I do not want to drill a pivot hole in the bottom of my workpiece. Any ideas? I thought about a block with a hole with double-stick tape, but centering the block and adding blocks so the work won't tilt down seem difficult." - Brian

A couple of suggestions came through. - Editor

"Rather than using a small block, attach a piece of 3/4 plywood large enough to prevent the piece from tilting. If you want to save on the ply, cut strips and tape them on in an 'X' pattern with one long and two short pieces with a hole in the long piece." - Stuart J.

"Another thought: how about a router pattern bit and a template? Tape or attach the template to the workpiece and use a router table. I have a couple of patterns that I have made for various pieces of furniture. I rough trim them and then use the pattern bit to get them to the exact size and shape." - JL

Plus, a comment about the pattern bit method. - Editor

"I have used this method successfully in the past; however, twice, while working on a circle and an ovalm I had it blow out as the pattern bit rounded its way into the end grain. It's a lot of work to make the pattern, glue up the blank, and in both cases I had to start from scratch." - Mark

And a few more suggestions. - Editor

"Do you have a lathe? If so, you could turn what amounts to an annulus from thin stock, tape it to your workpiece and use a router with a collar that fits in the annulus. I can explain it further , if you're interested." - Eliot D

"You can mark the circle with compasses and cut it freehand just outside the line. Finish it off to the line with a sander. Alternatively, cut a full-size pattern from scrap ply, MDF or whatever with the pivot hole and tape the workpiece on top. This way the edge is fully supported and does not wobble." - Jesper

"I was going to suggest cutting a similar piece out of scrap and taping it to the bottom like Jesper did, but why not dill a hole in the scrap, double-stick tape it to the bottom of your workpiece and cut both at the same time? That way the edge of your piece is supported and your should get even less chipout." - Barry I.

So, what do you think, eZine readers? Do you have even more suggestions for a circle jig? Or another way of doing things in the shop that thinks beyond the "regular way"? - Editor

Best Thing I've Done to My Pipe Clamps from WoodCentral

This discussion, too, took a different look at something in the shop: in this case, a staple shop supply that the woodworker retrofitted to fit his needs. - Editor

"I have maybe 15 pipe clamps that I have collected for the 40-some years I have been doing woodworking. There are a couple of different brands and styles. The manufacturer changed them over the years, and some have a foot on them and many don't. Recently I had some scraps of Baltic birch plywood left over, so I made wooden jaw liners for them. Cut them to about 5" by 2", drilled about an 1- 1/4" hole for the pipe, rounded all the edges (even the holes) with a roundover bit, and screwed them to the jaws. Had to drill holes in the jaws for the screws, but it was easy, the metal was fairly soft. If the screws poked through, I filed them flush. This turns out to be a significant improvement in handling the clamps. Now they all will sit up, at the same height, the handles clear the table, you don't have to use cauls, and when you install them from the top they will sit up in that direction too and the handles clear the table. Wax or otherwise 'glue-proof' the jaws. Make a few spares. Make the hole loose so as not to bind. A little wider would be OK or better. Solid wood may work as well, but the [Baltic birch] was too pretty to throw away. These are holding up well." - Barry I.

In response, he got a slight warning - and another clamping suggestion. - Editor

"Even if you file the protruding screws, they can still poke out. Just use shorter ones." - Alex G.

"We used to do a lot of interiors (kitchens, libraries, etc.) that required multiple panel glue-ups. I devised a sawhorse system that included racks screwed to the tops of equal-height sawhorses, with rectangular slots for our Wetzler bar clamps and 1" half-circle cutouts for our Jorgies and other 3/4" pipe clamps. The cutouts were spaced on about 6" centers, so you could position clamps effectively for almost any length of glue-up. Our racks were about 6' long, so you could glue up several panels at a time, then just lift them off and stand them against the wall to dry." - Ellis W.