Tool Covers from Sawmill Creek

When a woodworker asked why tool manufacturers don't sell custom covers for their machines as an add-on accessory at the time of purchase, he was surprised to learn that he appears to be in a minority of woodworkers who use tool covers. What do you think about covering up your tools? - Editor

"I prefer to purchase small power tools with cases and, whenever I purchase a large tool, I also buy a cover. Like most hobbyists, my shop is not humidity-controlled, nor heated/cooled, so my tools need protection. Most vendors know that the best time to sell accessories is when the customer is making an initial purchase. Why, then, don't they offer covers for the machines they sell?" - James

One query that arose out of this discussion is whether covers actually help protect tools against humidity. - Editor

"Does covering them actually help? I feel it may trap moisture and, even if I don't use a tool, I can walk around the shop and check to make sure no rust is forming. I just put a heavy coat of wax on in the fall and keep an eye on 'em." - Phillip

"That's long been the 'conventional wisdom' with motorcycles, unless you use a cover that's specifically meant to 'breathe.' I would imagine that, if the bottom if fairly open, allowing for sufficient air movement..then you could keep the grime off the machine, while keeping the condensation issue to a minimum." - Neil

"The HTC covers are breathable. I always have one on the TS [table saw]. The 8" jointer is too long for the size I have, so I have a piece of heavy canvas tarp on it." - Myk

Then there was the discussion about whether woodworkers use covers, or find them necessary. - Editor

"I am sure that there are more people that don't use covers than use them. I am in the 'don't use them' group. My shop is so small that I have a hard time finding a place to lay my tape, let alone a cover. I just keep everything waxed really good and I can check it out each time I walk into the shop. I guess the way I look at it: if the cover will breathe, then, as the humidity goes up, so will the humidity under the cover. So the only thing I see that they do is keep the dust off." - Bill H.

"I am in the camp that doesn't use any covers. I have a roof over the machine; that is cover enough." - Tom W.

"Ninety-nine percent of my machinery is used. It never had a cover. I do cover machinery with a tarp if it must spend time outside, but no covers for me! Not in the shop!" - Chip

"Shopsmith offers covers for all their tools. I always purchased one with each tool I purchased. Also have a cover for my cabinet saw. I do not use them. Just one more thing to deal with when trying to finish a project in the shop." - Dave L.

"My theory is, 'out of sight, out of mind.'" - Paul

"I try not to coddle my machines. It'll turn them into sissies." - Johnny

Some woodworkers do use covers, under certain circumstances. - Editor

"I have covers made from painters crop cloths and use them if I am going to be idle in the shop for a few days, but probably just out of habit anymore rather than need. Before I had some decent DC [dust collection], I would get shadows or actual rust where the dust had settled and gathered moisture overnight. The covers took care of this problem. For the most part, the covers are no longer required; just handy to have. The need for covers is partly environment and partly the makeup of the owner." - Glenn

"I have some old ratty furniture pads that I use to cover the cast-iron surfaces. The surfaces are waxed, but sometimes my machines don't get used for weeks or even months at a time during the colder months. Plastic cases that came with the small power tools go out in the shed. I keep them in case I have to do some work away from home." - Austin

"I don't use covers, but they might have a place if I were staining up woodwork and laying it on or above tools to dry. I have used blue tarp in a pinch." - David P.

"I need a cover for my band saw because of "cat butt rust" - I have four cats that like to park themselves on the band saw table. A cover would work fine for eliminating that source of rust." - Benny

"I have a cover for each of my stationary machines. It's made entirely out of dust, dirt and grease. I use it religiously." - Neil

Bleaching Black Walnut from WoodCentral

While this discussion started out being about "how to" create a certain effect when finishing walnut wood, it veered into a discussion on "why would you" - demonstrating once again that woodworkers' taste in their woods' appearance varies widely. - Editor

"I'd like to know how and what to use to make the walnut I'm using that beautiful light to medium brown with dark brown streaks. There is a bleach called oxalic acid, but there are many different kinds. Plus, I need to know how to neutralize the acid. Can someone point me in the right direction on which brand of bleach to use and how to use it? I also need more information on the colorant to use. Should I use water- or solvent-based dye, gel stain, or the off-the-shelf pigmented stain? There are so many to choose form. The walnut will not be filled with paste wood filler. After I get the color correct, I'll be spraying it with a satin water-based conversion varnish." - David

This thread provoked responses from woodworkers who would never consider bleaching walnut – and who thought the original poster should have used the lumber stock selection process to get the color he wanted. - Editor

"Walnut, if unstained, will self-bleach in a sunlit room to just the color you describe. Any bleached walnut I have seen looks awful." - Bill T.

"I've been working with walnut for almost 20 years, kiln-dried and air-dried. One thing I've learned is that you really need to pick and choose your boards for color before you start construction. I've tried bleaching; I hated the results: it looked dried and washed out, not like real walnut at all. Over the years, I've come to enjoy the myriad variations of natural walnut, from very light, almost white, sapwood, to the rich brownish red color. Choosing your boards carefully, you can achieve the color you want with just a simple clear or oil finish (my favorite is Waterlox)." - Doug F.

"I can only say that I have never subtracted color from walnut. I have only added color to it. Generally, I add an amber/reddish-brown aniline dye mix to walnut. Occasionally, I will wipe a bit more on light areas, but in general, I find the contrast of heart- and sapwood (after dyed) to be pleasing." - Tom

"I have been around walnut, along with all the other hardwood, most of my life. I like what Mother Nature gave us: I don't do anything to walnut, just pick the boards. I mix sapwood in also; that gives the natural look. If any other thing is done, it's not what I like. Of course, it is not for me. There is so much phony looks out there: photo finish, stain over cheap wood, etc." - Del

One respondent did talk about bleaching options, in response to the original question. - Editor

"I'm not sure I understand why you want to bleach the walnut, but if you go ahead, you are using the incorrect bleach. There are three bleaches used in woodworking:

• Chlorine bleach (Clorox®). This bleach is used to remove the color of a dye stain.
• Oxalic acid. This bleach is used to remove mineral stains (black stains from water and metal) from wood
• Two-part A/B bleach. Used to remove the natural color from wood.

The last one is the one to use if you want to lighten walnut. Follow the directions on the packaging." - Howard