5-7-12 Gorilla Wood Glue_Leaderboard 728 x 90  

Woodworker's Journal
Magazine

Woodworker's Social Media Directory
Woodworkers Journal 1
Woodworkers Journal eZine Signup Page
5-7-12 Gorilla Wood Glue_banner 468 x 60
EZINE HOME    | Tool Preview    | Q&A    | Feedback    | Industry Interview    | Free Plans    | Calendar    | Contact Us    | Web Surfer's Review
Tricks of the Trade    | Crossword Puzzle    | Reader's Project Gallery    | What's In Store    | Today's Woodworker    | Schools    |   Staff  |   Archive
Dealing with a Drill Press; Shipping Big Projects
Issue: Issue 286
Posted Date: 10/18/2011

Printer Friendly Version  Increase Text Size Decrease Text Size

286WRJETDrillPressDrill Press Question from WoodCentral

This normally-a-wood-worker tried to use his drill press to drill a different material – in this case, plastic sheets – and ran into an unexpected problem. – Editor

"Drill press is JET floor model. Was going to drill some plastic sheets - manufacturer says use high speed to minimize heat buildup, i.e. quick drilling does that. Set belts for 3,000 rpm and chuck fell out - never did that before. Why did this happen, and how do I prevent it?" - Dave

One commenter thought running this material at that high of a speed was a mistake. - Editor

"Can't imagine that high speed would minimize heat build up. I use low speed and specially ground drill bits for plastic. A steeper angle doesn't pull the sheet up as it goes through the bottom. Normal drill bit grinds do that. Some plastics try to melt even at moderately slow speeds. I'm guessing the vibration of running at 3,000 rpm is what made it fall out. I've only had it happen to me on a few occasions and I've had my drill press for 20 years or more. Put it back in and put a piece of wood on the table. Then press it in: really go against the wood. I crank the jaws all the way in so it's pressing against the body of the chuck." - John L.

Other commenters had additional advice. – Editor

"Clean the tapers really well before reinstalling" - Kneale

"Check the taper and chuck for signs of galling or contaminants. Carefully remove (ream) galling if necessary. Make sure there are no contaminants on either surface and clean if needed before whapping it back on. While not likely the cause of your problem, you should be using a bit with 60 degree (60-90) tip angle to drill acrylic or polycarbonate. Normal twist drills typically have a tip angle of 118 degrees (118 - 135)." - Alan

"Try this on a scrap piece of plastic: if I recall, at work we use to run the drill in REVERSE and let the bit MELT its way through. It's been a while, that's why I say try a scrap piece. If you do, let us know how it went." – Larry

Including one who suggested specialized drill bits. - Editor

"Once you get your drill press together, there are special drill bits designed for drilling acrylics. You can purchase them at any Plexiglas store or a plastics production shop. Mine were manufactured by Craftics Inc., 2701 N. Pulaski Road, Chicago IL 60639." - Al

Shipping Furniture/Bulky Stuff from WoodCentral

There comes a time in most woodworkers' lives when you're going to build something pretty big. And then … comes the challenge of trying to figure out how to get it where it's going. - Editor

"One of my sons is in the Army and is at Fort Sill (for now), and the other is about to move to Florida. I am in Richmond, Virginia. I would like to make them some furniture, but how to get it to them is the problem. Anyone shipped furniture? Any good ideas on how to do it cheaply and safely. Safe being more important than cheap. Cost? I was thinking of crating it, but the crate adds to bulk and weight and then there is the problem of what to do with the crate. Store it until next time or trash it?" - Barry I.

A few suggestions came from those responding to the comment thread. - Editor

"You can get all sorts of packaging stuff at Uline, even furniture sizes. Furniture is expensive to ship." - Steve S

"There's crating - more secure, probably higher cost (both in prep and in costs). There's blanket wrap, which is similar to what moving firms do when they move your household, but for one item. You might explore both and see which is cheaper and whether either one's feasible. Painful to say this, but, at this stage of their lives, thrift stores or Ick-ee-ah might be better, at least until they settle. If your one son's career army, you should find out whether the military will move it for him once he has it; if so, you'd be amortizing the initial cost of shipping over however many assignments he gets." - Bill H.

"I have a friend who makes large rocking horses and likes Greyhound."  - Jerry G.

"It depends on the weight and size. If you both are 'reasonably close' to a freight line terminal, such as Old Dominion or whatever, you can do a 'terminal to terminal' shipment. This is the least expensive. You do have to crate or box your piece. If it is heavy, put it on a pallet or incorporate lifting spacers in the bottom of the crate. FedEx freight is also an option - but they aren't cheap. Lift gate delivery and pick-up are the most expensive." – J.L.

These last two sound like the most fun options – one of them even incorporates woodworking into the solution. - Editor

"Road trip." – J.L.

"Suggestion: make the furniture using mortise and tenon construction, but tighten up the joints using through wooden wedges which can be removed when moving. That way the 'package' is smaller and will not be too large to handle and probably will cost less to ship. Tables like they used to use in the monasteries, etc." - Joseph M.

5-7-12 Gorilla Wood Glue_Skyscraper - 300x600

WoodworkersjournalBannerAd3
Bottomwwj
social media directory
BottomWW
BottomRD
BottomWIW
BottomRockler_0
Copyright © 2012 Woodworker's Journal