Height from WoodCentral
discussion came from a woodworker who is building a workbench and
wanted to know the "correct" height for it. - Editor
am building a workbench and need your opinions on workbench height. I
am a little height deprived compared to the average guy today and
like 36"; however, for working off a stool, I think 39"
works better. What are your suggestions?" - Bill R.
conclusions of those who responded to the thread were: it depends, on
what you're doing. - Editor
on the projects you're building. I'm not exceptionally tall --
6'1" -- and my workbench (w/ casters) is 36" tall. Doubles
as an outfeed table for my table saw (also on a mobile base). I'm
currently building a blanket chest (25" tall), and now that the
casework is assembled, I'd like to have a shorter bench for a while.
My router table, alternately, is about 40" tall. It's a Rockler
laminated top with a base that I built. I don't want to have to bend
over and get a backache routing things. I've read that hand tool
users prefer a bench on the shorter side so they can put their body
into the tool motion, and the work processes differ a bit. So I think
the answer to your question begins with how the bench will be used."
all depends on what kind of work you will be doing. Pick out a couple
of activities and try them on a flat surface at a few likely heights
(build up the height with lumber or cinder blocks for the test).
What's important is YOUR COMFORT, so don't spend a lot of time
looking at what other people do. And, if you mess up, its a lot
easier to make a bench taller than to make it shorter! One more
thing, if you do a lot of close work such as dovetail sawing or
inlays, consider a small bench that can clamp on your regular bench
to bring things up to your chest level or so. " - Jesse C.
find that, for me, 34" is good. I am 5' 9". The way I came
to that is I measured from the floor to my knuckles when I make a
fist. I am in the process of making a new bench now. What I did first
was to build a mock-up from 2 bys and a sheet of 3/4" ply and
went through some of the motions I would do while planing, cutting
dovetails, using a mallet and chisel; adjusted the height by standing
small sheet scraps of ½" and ¾" plywood to see if any other
height was better and 34" was my magic number." - Bob
of the best decisions I ever made . . . I stood up and measured where
it was comfortable to work, then I sat on my 'bar' stool and measured
where it was comfortable with my elbows on the bench. Then I split
the difference. Now I can stand there and plane all day or sit and
fiddle with small stuff. " - Steve M.
1/2" lower than my table saw so it can act as an extended
outfeed. For work with hand tools, lower is better. For power tools,
higher is better. Mine's a compromise, but a useful one." - Dave
Mineral Spirits to Find Glue Squeeze-out from WoodCentral
woodworker was trying to get rid of glue squeeze-out. He thought he
remembered one method, but wanted further details -- and further
suggestions. - Editor
built some bookcases out of birch plywood, and made what I'm sure is
a common mistake. I used too much glue on some of the joints and
ended up with a row of pinhead-size beads several inches in length
along several of the joints. I wiped up the excess glue when it was
liquid, using several paper towels to avoid as much as possible
spreading the excess (it's not as bad as it sounds, I hope ).
However, I'm sure some of the excess glue remained in place and has
now dried. I seem to recall someone suggesting applying a small
amount of mineral spirits to identify where the excess glue had
penetrated the plywood. In any event, my plan is to use the mineral
spirits to find the excess glue, and then sand ever-so-carefully to
minimize the irregularity to my finish. Recognizing I'm not going to
achieve perfection (and really, who amongst us does?), do I have a
sound plan for minimizing the visual consequences of my mistake? What
improvement(s) would you offer?" - Phileas
got some suggestions on his method of removing the squeeze-out, plus
a couple of other options to use instead of mineral spirits. - Editor
a rag or paper towel with mineral spirits. Wipe the wood, and the
glue blobs and finger marks will be readily visible. Let the mineral
spirits fully evaporate before attempting to sand or scrape off the
glue residue. You can also use alcohol, which will evaporate faster
so you can get back to work faster." - Howard A.
quite well. If you don't want to use mineral spirits, water,
denatured alcohol and just about anything that can 'wet' out a
surface will work. I usually use isopropyl alcohol as it is somewhat
inexpensive and slow to evaporate. I typically use the 'high test'
stuff (90 percent)." - J.L.
respondent doesn't think he should be wiping off glue squeeze-out at
all. - Editor
don't know where the commonly advised wiping of glue squeeze-out came
from, but I think it is bad advice. It turns an inconvenience into a
problem by spreading the glue around over a much larger surface.
Better to let those beads begin to dry and, when they become rubbery,
pop them off with a scraper or chisel. If you know how to
sharpen and use a scraper,i t will be vastly faster for removing the
dried and smeared glue. If you are not staining, is the glue a
problem? Before I went to much trouble trying to remove a thin film
of glue I would test some finish on a glue spot on some test piece of
wood and see if it is a problem. It will be a problem if you are
staining. In the future, applying glue with a stiff brush, -- 'acid'
brushes work well -- enables a controlled amount of glue to be
applied which avoids excess squeezing out. I pour some glue in a
disposable cup and apply it with the brush." - Bill T.
you really want it to be easy, pre-sand your parts and give the
visible surfaces a coat of tung oil or something similar. Glue just
pops right off the oiled surface, especially if the oil is a little
wet still when assembly is done. Just have to be careful not to get
oil on the joints, of course." - John