Workbench Height from WoodCentral

This discussion came from a woodworker who is building a workbench and wanted to know the "correct" height for it. - Editor

"I am building a workbench and need your opinions on workbench height. I am a little height deprived compared to the average guy today and like 36"; however, for working off a stool, I think 39" works better. What are your suggestions?" - Bill R.

The conclusions of those who responded to the thread were: it depends, on what you're doing. - Editor

"Depends on the projects you're building. I'm not exceptionally tall -- 6'1" -- and my workbench (w/ casters) is 36" tall. Doubles as an outfeed table for my table saw (also on a mobile base). I'm currently building a blanket chest (25" tall), and now that the casework is assembled, I'd like to have a shorter bench for a while. My router table, alternately, is about 40" tall. It's a Rockler laminated top with a base that I built. I don't want to have to bend over and get a backache routing things. I've read that hand tool users prefer a bench on the shorter side so they can put their body into the tool motion, and the work processes differ a bit. So I think the answer to your question begins with how the bench will be used." - A.Z.

"It all depends on what kind of work you will be doing. Pick out a couple of activities and try them on a flat surface at a few likely heights (build up the height with lumber or cinder blocks for the test). What's important is YOUR COMFORT, so don't spend a lot of time looking at what other people do. And, if you mess up, its a lot easier to make a bench taller than to make it shorter! One more thing, if you do a lot of close work such as dovetail sawing or inlays, consider a small bench that can clamp on your regular bench to bring things up to your chest level or so. " - Jesse C.

"I find that, for me, 34" is good. I am 5' 9". The way I came to that is I measured from the floor to my knuckles when I make a fist. I am in the process of making a new bench now. What I did first was to build a mock-up from 2 bys and a sheet of 3/4" ply and went through some of the motions I would do while planing, cutting dovetails, using a mallet and chisel; adjusted the height by standing small sheet scraps of ½" and ¾" plywood to see if any other height was better and 34" was my magic number." - Bob

"One of the best decisions I ever made . . . I stood up and measured where it was comfortable to work, then I sat on my 'bar' stool and measured where it was comfortable with my elbows on the bench. Then I split the difference. Now I can stand there and plane all day or sit and fiddle with small stuff. " - Steve M.

"Mine's 1/2" lower than my table saw so it can act as an extended outfeed. For work with hand tools, lower is better. For power tools, higher is better. Mine's a compromise, but a useful one." - Dave B.

Use Mineral Spirits to Find Glue Squeeze-out from WoodCentral

This woodworker was trying to get rid of glue squeeze-out. He thought he remembered one method, but wanted further details -- and further suggestions. - Editor

"I built some bookcases out of birch plywood, and made what I'm sure is a common mistake. I used too much glue on some of the joints and ended up with a row of pinhead-size beads several inches in length along several of the joints. I wiped up the excess glue when it was liquid, using several paper towels to avoid as much as possible spreading the excess (it's not as bad as it sounds, I hope ). However, I'm sure some of the excess glue remained in place and has now dried. I seem to recall someone suggesting applying a small amount of mineral spirits to identify where the excess glue had penetrated the plywood. In any event, my plan is to use the mineral spirits to find the excess glue, and then sand ever-so-carefully to minimize the irregularity to my finish. Recognizing I'm not going to achieve perfection (and really, who amongst us does?), do I have a sound plan for minimizing the visual consequences of my mistake? What improvement(s) would you offer?" - Phileas

He got some suggestions on his method of removing the squeeze-out, plus a couple of other options to use instead of mineral spirits. - Editor

"Dampen a rag or paper towel with mineral spirits. Wipe the wood, and the glue blobs and finger marks will be readily visible. Let the mineral spirits fully evaporate before attempting to sand or scrape off the glue residue. You can also use alcohol, which will evaporate faster so you can get back to work faster." - Howard A.

"Works quite well. If you don't want to use mineral spirits, water, denatured alcohol and just about anything that can 'wet' out a surface will work. I usually use isopropyl alcohol as it is somewhat inexpensive and slow to evaporate. I typically use the 'high test' stuff (90 percent)." - J.L.

This respondent doesn't think he should be wiping off glue squeeze-out at all. - Editor

"I don't know where the commonly advised wiping of glue squeeze-out came from, but I think it is bad advice. It turns an inconvenience into a problem by spreading the glue around over a much larger surface. Better to let those beads begin to dry and, when they become rubbery, pop them off with a scraper or chisel. If you know how to sharpen and use a scraper,i t will be vastly faster for removing the dried and smeared glue. If you are not staining, is the glue a problem? Before I went to much trouble trying to remove a thin film of glue I would test some finish on a glue spot on some test piece of wood and see if it is a problem. It will be a problem if you are staining. In the future, applying glue with a stiff brush, -- 'acid' brushes work well -- enables a controlled amount of glue to be applied which avoids excess squeezing out. I pour some glue in a disposable cup and apply it with the brush." - Bill T.

"If you really want it to be easy, pre-sand your parts and give the visible surfaces a coat of tung oil or something similar. Glue just pops right off the oiled surface, especially if the oil is a little wet still when assembly is done. Just have to be careful not to get oil on the joints, of course." - John