Ad-WebBanner-728x90-WoodworkersJournal-5X-Norton-DIY-2013  

Woodworker's Journal
Magazine

Woodworkers Journal 1
Woodworkers Journal eZine Signup Page

Free-WWJ-Banner-Ad-D4R-Pro-Jan11-13
EZINE HOME    | Tool Preview    | Q&A    | Feedback    | Industry Interview    | Free Plans    | Calendar    | Contact Us    | Web Surfer's Review

Tricks of the Trade    | Crossword Puzzle    | Readers Project Gallery    | What's In Store    | Today's Woodworker    | Schools    |   Staff  |   Archive
"Dreadful" Scroll Saws and Much-Used Tools
Issue: Issue 245
Posted Date: 3/23/2010

Printer Friendly Version  Increase Text Size Decrease Text Size

DeWalt Scroll SawScroll Sawing Can Be Dreadful from WoodCentral

The original post in this discussion came from a woodworker who hadn't used his scroll saw much before his current project, and now finds himself wondering if as much blade breakage as he's experiencing is normal – and what can be done about it. - Editor

“I've owned a scroll saw but never seriously used it. Now I have to make sets of chessmen, 32 men per board, six boards. I have the first 32 pieces fabricated. I bet I broke 20 blades so far. The blades are 18.5 tpi/pin type. I find the speed of approx 1,400 to 1,500 opm to be fast enough for smooth cutting, despite some mental lulling. Then a blade breaks with a loud bang and wakes me up. I bought the blades at Orange Borg ( Ryobi) and some at a local hardware store ( Olsen). I wonder if that degree blade breakage is a 'cost of doing business,' or a cost of learning to like a scroll saw. I feel like blowing it up when the projects are over. I need some advice on blade sources, pin and pinless blades themselves, tension, feed rate, and a good place to recycle the broken items. At the rate I am breaking them, I'll have a hundred pounds of broken blades before I'm done. I'll be glad to see this phase of the project over.” - George

Some respondents suggested a packing tape trick to fix the problem, and also discussed whether the blade could be over – or under-tensioned. - Editor

“I have found that putting a strip of clear package tape on the top and bottom of scroll sawn pieces helps a lot in limiting blade breakage. The tape seems to lubricate the blade. Also, slow down your feed rate and let the blade do the cutting. You can also play with the tension on the blade. Good luck.” - Joe

“My scrolling experience is over 20 years. I think two issues are responsible for your blade breakage. The first issue is that your blade is probably over tightened. You may be stuck with this one, as I don't remember pin-end blade machines being able to adjust tension. The second issue is the blade speed and feed rate. Any wood thicker that 3/4 requires a slower cutting rate and slower feed rate. Slow down and let the saw do the work. The tape suggestion is a very good tip. Have an extra beer when finished.” - Terry

“I actually had the breakage problem at the other end of the spectrum when I (rarely) used my scroll saw. I wasn't getting the blades tensioned enough, and they were breaking as a result. So, the last time I used it, I took some time to re-educate myself on how to tension the blades on my saw, and it suddenly cut much better, both in terms of speed and smoothness. Still a cheap saw, though!” - Jason

“In my scroll sawing projects, I have found out that the blades are not used the entire length of the blade in sawing....so, after a while, I reverse the blade top for bottom and continue until that section also gets dull and does not cut as smoothly as new cuts. And I let the blades do the cutting, not forcing the material into the blade but just gentle pressure letting the blade do the work. The plastic tape mentioned is also a good item to consider for the lubrication during the cutting.” - Joseph

Other respondents went right to the question of the blades the scroll sawyer was using. - Editor

“Compound sawing is tough on blades under the best of conditions. And, you won't find good blades at any of the big box stores. Some Olsen blades are good, but you won't find them at HD. What saw are you using? Will it take pinless blades? Http://www.truecutblades.com” -Janice

“Here is the blades you need to get. The blades get dull before they break, which is almost never unless you push too hard. http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm” - Del

“Here is a great place for scroll saw info. Many people at the site recommend Mikes for blades. http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum” - Brian

The original poster eventually came back on the forum, answered a few questions about his scroll saw – and revealed that, rather than throwing the tool across the room, he had now become the proud owner of two of them. - Editor

“As it happens, I am now using two scroll saws. Each is 16" capacity. I have owned a two speed AMT for years. I visited my hardware store to get a re-supply of blades while I considered the forum's online sources, and got into a conversation with the store manager about blades and scroll saws. He had recently bought out the previous owner and was liquidating inventory. He had a new ACE variable speed marked down from $109.99 which he 'gave' me for $35.00 with two packs of Olsen Blades. I haven't used the new saw for more than a couple chess pieces, so can't testify to its fine points yet. It does break blades as well as the AMT, though. Still, the price was right, and I can always give one of them to one of my kids. Each saw can run pinless blades. I have been using pin type blades in them, as they seem easier to load--and I am getting pretty good at that!” - George

Which Gets the Most Use? from Sawmill Creek

This discussion began with a curious poster and his poll on large shop tools. - Editor

“Just a curiosity: After your table saw, which tool sees the most use?” - Victor

The winner in the poll he posted was the jointer, followed by the planer, then band saw, router/router table, compound miter saw, and a tie between the drill press and drum sander. With, of course, commentary from the poll respondents, including a small debate about whether a planer and jointer are always used an equal amount. - Editor

“Couldn't vote. Planer and jointer get used equally in tandem.”- Brian

“I agree. I seldom perform just one operation. Of course, I mostly use rough stock. If I had to pick just one, I 'd say planer, but would not want to give up either.” - Curt

“I'm one up on the planer. When you live in the concrete jungle, most hardwood is sold already surfaced. You have to go out of your way to get lumber in the rough. The most I usually have to do is run it through the planer to reach the desired thickness.” - Michael

“I remembered that I go with one more step with my jointer...edge jointing.” - Harold

“I use the planer and jointer in tandem as well. I tipped the edge to the planer since it typically removes much more material than the jointer (more passes to bring to thickness).” - Jeremy

Of course, there were also a few comments from the woodworkers whose choice of tool was “other.” - Editor

“I had to go with 'other' due to my lathe being the most used tool in my shop.” - Karl

“I voted other, and that would be my radial arm saw.” - Jeff

“The most used machine in my shop is the cyclone, since it's used for all of the machines.” - Rod


WJ-SIP-CD4-Sky

CARBIDE-B&D_WWJ_300_WEB
Bottomwwj
BottomWW
BottomWIW
BottomRockler_0
Copyright © 2013 Woodworker's Journal