Working With Really Rich Pine
from WoodCentral
This discussion dealt with
appropriate finishes for some "really rich" pine -- a kind
of "gateway" wood that other woodworkers, especially those
just starting out, may also have some questions about. - Editor
"I
[have] a project coming up that I will be building a desk, using the
lumber from a former AR Champion Loblolly Pine. The client's father
owned the land, and beetles killed the tree. I have been slow
roasting the wood to set the pitch. But I'm wondering about
finishing. I would suppose shellac would be the best sealer coat, or
is there something else a bit harder, more suitable for a desk top?
I've used plenty of pine for construction purposes, but not for fine
furniture. I wish I could have gotten in on sawing this tree up, I
would have ripped it with my chainsaw then put the halves on my
Wood-Mizer, and had some [quartersawn] or edge grain planks, where
two would have made the top. But the best now are only 5". Any
pitfalls you can share would be appreciated." - Keith N.
"The
problem with using pine -- particularly loblolly pine -- is its
softness. It will be very susceptible to damage from anyone using a
ballpoint pen when writing on paper on the surface. The writing will
be 'telegraphed' into the wood. There is really no finish that will
harden the surface of the wood ,with the exception of a pour-on epoxy
which has other problems associated with it. A couple of suggestions: •
Use a harder wood
for the top; •
Buy a blotter pad to
protect the surface; •
Avoid a soft finish
like poly or oil-based varnish." - Howard A.
"A
few years ago, I made a pair of cabinets out of sugar pine. It was a
special tree that was struck by lightning, and about 8" of the
24" wide boards were blue with a nice sprinkling of some
wormholes. I used all the rustic parts for one cabinet and all the
unstained and sound parts for another. For the blue cabinet, I used
Jasco Tung Oil, and for the other, I carved the panels and then used
Jasco Tung Oil tinted with oil paint. I built a rich finish by using
coats each tinted a slightly different color. The cabinet finished
with the straight Jasco Tung Oil had three or four coats, and it had
a nice sheen and a wonderful warm amber tone to it. Unfortunately,
Jasco Tung Oil was a victim of Bain Capital and is no longer
available. I am close to getting similar results with a blend of
McCloskeys® spar varnish, polymerized tung oil, a dash of
[turpentine] and a bit of Japan drier. It isn't quite as amber as I
would like." - Robin C.
"An
option is to use a piece of glass for the "top coat". It'll
show the wood but block surface damage. It could be too pricey,
though. It depends on how much you have into the project." -
Dave B.
The original poster then remembered
that pine has been used for a long time, such as in flooring --
perhaps without a finish at all. - Editor
"I'll
probably leave that up to the customer, if they want it, but the
edge-grain that I plan to use for the top is not as bad as the big
broad bands on plain sawn pine. When I think about it, sometimes I
see old edge-grain pine floors, where they used this rich lumber, and
they look great, even after a hundred years. Probably when they were
installed, they may not have even had a finish. Back then, I think
the women or their maids would get down with a scrub brush on a
regular basis with soap and water." - Keith N.
Woodworking: Dangerous in Oh So
Many Ways from WoodCentral
While, of course, you should always
follow safety practices when woodworking, that's not exactly what
this discussion is about. It's a different sort of "danger"
associated with woodworking -- and with tool lust. - Editor
"No
shop accident. I am well, unpunctured, and have all my digits and
both eyes. But -- I am in New England visiting relatives. For
something to do, I took my mother into Boston to visit the Museum of
Science. While cruising along I-90, I noticed a pickup with a load of
some sort strapped in the back. Hmmm. It was sort of gold in color.
Hmmm. Could that be some new Powermatic machine on its way home? Is
that a large planer? What? What?! I tried speeding up to catch it and
take a look. 'Quick, Mom. What's that thing say that's in the back of
the truck?' But she misheard me and started reading the guy's name on
the truck door! I risked almost driving off the road into the median
and tried to turn to read it. Too late. We passed him and then he
slowed down. I was way past him. Rats! I never found out what that
was. It could have been a PM 15" planer; it could have been a
drum sander; it could have been some x-ray machine. Sheesh! I manage
to ignore accident scenes without rubbernecking and slowing down to
look, when I am on the road. I just don't want to know or see the
blood and gore. And I want to let those poor folks have some privacy.
But suspect woodworking tools and machines -- all bets are off! I
have to look. I think they must have powerful magnets in them. Be
careful out there!" - Joanne
Evidently,
this sort of thing is not an isolated occurrence. - Editor
"A
few years back, I had a similar experience like yours, only worse. I
was on 405 Freeway on the way to San Diego. There was a pickup truck
in front of me carrying something like an European table saw. At the
time, I was thinking of buying one. I sped up to see the saw clearer.
Before I was able to make out the brand of the saw, I was pulled over
by a CA Highway Patrol car. Reason: 'following too close.' Cost me a
few hundred dollars and a day in traffic school!" - Hoa
"I
will go to some lengths to maneuver to get to see what is on a log
truck. I was doing that a few years ago and got up on a load of
veneer logs headed somewhere on a back road. There was a huge short
walnut log on the truck. I speculated that the tree might have been
longer still and that somewhere the rest of that huge tree was
sitting at some sawmill as a saw log. I investigated the likely
possibilities and, sure enough, there was a 10' log with a crotch at
one end, something that would at the time have disqualified it from
veneer consideration. Aha, an opportunity to get some quartered and
rift cut walnut from a big tree. I negotiated to buy the log and,
because I wanted it sawed a bit unconventional, the sawyer let me saw
it. I sawed it 12/4 so as to be able to resaw and book-match the
pieces. The crotch was a disappointment as it had lots of bark
inclusions." - Bill T.