Large Dining Room Table from
WoodWeb
When he says large, he means large:
the poster who began this discussion thread asked for input and
advice on an enormous table project. - Editor
"So,
I've built tables before, but nothing quite this size. It will be 7
feet 9 inches wide, and 16 feet long. I'll be building it out of
reclaimed oak. The top will be 1-3/4" x 9-5/16" planks
(yep, we will need several Samoans to lift it into place), and to
make it worse, I think I will use iron channel to stabilize and
strengthen the top. It will be rustic, and I will build the base in
three sections and assemble onsite. I've got some ideas of how to
attack this, but am posting this simply to solicit thoughts,
suggestions, ideas, and comments. Thanks." - Ron
One
suggestion dealt with the installation. - Editor
"Vikings?"
- Dave N.
Then
there was a conversation about the joinery. - Editor
"Are
you planning to join those giant planks or leave little gaps?" -
John H.
"Yes,
I will join them and glue them up. The wood is very old, and pretty
stable. I am constantly checking [relative humidity] and [moisture
content], so am not really concerned with that. If they have gathered
moisture from somewhere, I'll throw them in the kiln for a few days.
And I am in Utah, and the table will be staying in Utah, so pretty
dry." - Ron
"You're
doing the right thing joining them, however I find it very hard to
successfully join planks that big with the equipment I have.
Hopefully you're better equipped." - John H.
And
some concerns about the "in-use" aspect of a dining table
this large. - Editor
"Is
this a conference table or a dining table? If this is for a dining
table they might want to rethink the almost 8 foot width as the only
way to pass the salt across the table would be to throw it. A table
that wide would also tend to stifle dinner conversation." -
Norman O.
"We
did a mock-up in place at their castle, and did check the reach
across the table. We decided that we will also build a couple large
removable lazy Susans. The table had started out at 8 feet 6 inches x
17 feet, and they decided to shrink it some. I guess there are some
family members who they don't mind not having conversation with, so
they didn't want to shrink it too much. Ha Ha. We also joked about
having a shuffleboard stick to push food back and forth. - Ron
And
further conversation about the construction. - Editor
"I
always cringe when I read about strengthening wood with steel. I
don't know anything about your weather, but won't there be swings in
humidity some time of the year? Maybe you are planning on slots to
let the wood move. And isn't that over 800 pounds of wood, just in
the top? Can't imagine trying to start a 90 pound board on the
jointer, with 13' hanging off the bed. Sure hope that stock is
straight line ripped. - Rich
"Seems
like move the tools to the wood instead of the wood to the tools! I
am thinking straightedge (aluminum angle works good, no harm if
router nicks it), then clean edges, then drill and add dowels, then
drill and use threaded rod, but some die springs made for tool and
die jobs. This will be the expansion contraction "give."
Plug the edges where the threaded rod is? Then hand power
plane/sand?" - Dave
"So
now to details. This wood is over 60 years old, and is actually
pretty dang straight. I will need to join them, just to clean up the
edges a little, and have built a long jig for the joiner that was
used for building large box beam material. I was going to use steel
channel and let it in with a plunge saw into the bottom of the
planks, after using a Festool Domino to join the edges of the planks.
The channel would be screwed to the planks from underneath. I would
build the table in two halves lengthwise (3 x 5-3/8" x 16' --
leaving one plank out, as my wide belt is only 43" wide), run
the two halves and the plank through the wide belt sander, then join
the two halves and the extra plank together and hand plane and hand
sand the center seams to finish. The skirting would be pocket screwed
to the underside of the table, and the legs are difficult to describe
without a sketch, but they will be double decoratively bandsawn
square legs on a single wide foot with stretchers in between them.
The foot on the bottom and a board on the top that will be screwed to
the underside of the top. I will do three of the leg/foot components
on near each end, and one in the center. The stretchers connecting
the feet will be mortised and tenoned into the feet. I had planned on
two steel channels in between the three leg/'foot components for
extra stability. So that's the plan, but I'm not too proud to change
plans based on good contribution." - Ron
"The
problem I have encountered with the kind of thing you're doing -- in
addition to the awesome task of schlepping huge planks, etc. -- is
that 'pretty dang straight' isn't straight enough to make a
consistently seamless glue joint -- and if 85 percent of the top is
seamlessly glued and the remaining 15 percent doesn't quite join, it
looks like a mistake. But hopefully your jig will enable you to join
it perfectly." - John H.
"Point
taken. Do you think I'd be better off straightening and cleaning up
the edges with the Festool track saw? I have enough track to reach
the length. The
one 'out' that bounces around in the back of my mind is that it is
'rustic' and many of the "mistakes" can be disguised as
such. That's what we've done hundreds of times on lots of different
projects. We don't use it as an excuse for inferior workmanship, but
sometimes we are dealt character inherent to the old wood, and add to
that character with our methods. Maybe that sounds like a lame
explanation, but things have really turned out very cool in the
past." - Ron
Innovative
Solutions to Strange Problems from Sawmill Creek
Although
the "innovative solution to a strange problem" which began
this thread dealt more with construction than with woodworking -- and
the original poster seems to have quite a few of his own innovations
to share -- the ideas are, indeed, intriguing. What about you, eZine
readers? Have you ever created your own innovation to solve a strange
problem? - Editor
"I
had a situation at work, had to flash under already installed cedar
shingles. Flashing is heavy copper, and if you have ever tried to
slip flashing under cedar shingles, you will know what I mean. It's a
pain. There is always one hanging you up. T
o add to it, it is only
2-1/2" off of a deck. On the way to the job I had an epiphany. I
stopped and bought a box of sugar cubes. I pried out each shingle and
shoved a sugar cube up between the shingles all the way down the
wall. Then slipped the copper in and nailed it home with brass nails
just below the shingles. Now I just walked down the wall with a
rubber mallet, tapping the shingles and crushing the sugar cubes.
Done! It was so easy I wish I had thought of it years ago, as I work
on a lot of shingle style houses. Took a hose and rinsed away all the
sugar real well to keep the ants away, and threw down some ant killer
for good measure. What took me a day and a half and a lot of cuss
words on the other end of the house took two hours." - Larry E.
"I
don't know if you'd call it an innovative solution, but here goes. If
I'm in a hurry, I use a lighter to heat the end of a hot-melt stick
till it drips. A couple drops will tack something down fast. No
waiting for a gun to heat up." - Andrew J.
"I
did a little experiment today with poly glue. Gorilla, Titebond, etc.
I put a small amount in two lids and covered with Saran™ Wrap, one
with air and one with BlOxygen™ added. At the end of the day, the
one with just a Saran Wrap cover was all foamed up, and the one with
BlOxygen was still fine." - Larry E.
"My
horsehair shop cleanup brushes get dirty (Duh!). Couple times a year
I wash 'em with regular shampoo, then conditioning rinse, rinse with
clear water. Clean and soft shop brushes good to go again." -
Bill W.
"I
had some West System® Epoxy in the back of my new truck and it
tipped over and leaked. So, after I cleaned it up, I threw a bunch of
golf balls in a box and pushed the West down in the golf balls and
drove around kinda crazy like. Didn't tip over. I am going to have to
figure out something like this for the back of the truck but a little
more streamlined and easily removable when I need an empty bed."
- Larry E.