"I would like to make my own tools for string inlay. Does anyone know what kind of blade I can use for the groove cutter? Is there something that I can alter to make a groove cutting blade? I know Lie-Nielsen has a nice string set, but they are very expensive so I thought I would try to make my own set." - Katherine
"I have done some inlay using a Dremel tool with a router base and various bits. I also found a modified chuck collet which allows me to use dental bits for very small cuts." - Joe
"A few thoughts come to mind. Look in antique stores, on eBay, or wherever and see if you can find an old Stanley Small Router. The LN version is a remake of the Stanley. You may get one reasonably with no blades. Then you can buy the replacement blades from LN. This is what I did when I wanted a beading plane. I bought an antique Stanley for about $30.00 then bought the LN replacement set of blanks, and ground my own profiles. You can make your own, and again buy the blades. A good hardwood block, shaped appropriately, with blade affixed would certainly do the job nicely. That's what early woodworkers did. Lastly, save your money and spring for the LN. I have many good antique planes that I have bought and restored over the years and now use, but working with my LN low angle block plane is a pure joy. Hope this helps." - Ralph
"Thanks for all the advice. I spent the last month experimenting with various techniques and shop-made tools. I ground a blade as you suggested, and it worked pretty well with a few alternate grinds. However, I think I am going to try the router. I found a small router base that luthiers use, and I hope it will give me the control I need. I love LN and have several planes and chisels, but I just can't justify the cost for the string inlay tools until I have tried all other methods. I may not even like string inlay, and if I have LN tools I will feel honor bound to use them. Thanks again." - Katherine
New Math: from Sawmill Creek
"I'm in the process of buying some lumber online. The dimensions are two by nine by 52. The supplier says it's 11.5 board feet. I keep coming up with 6.6." - Deb
"I calculate 6.5 board feet, assuming the measurements are as stated, of course. Just tell them you will accept their measurement if they accept half the asking price." - John
"Have you asked the seller to explain the discrepancy? Might be just a simple math mistake on his part." - Frank
"At the lumberyard my boss runs, customers occasionally want 'part' of a bigger board, but the wood is sold in 'whole lengths' only, so if they order 9 feet out of a 16 foot board, they pay for 16 feet. Some don't want or take the offcuts. Sometimes we ship wood via UPS, and this lumber is generally trimmed or defected to cut weight for shipping purposes or to meet maximum length allowed by UPS. If the seller is sending you a 'piece' of a larger board and trimming the ends clean to drop weight and keep shipping more reasonable, you may want to find out what is happening to the rest of the wood. If they insist that those dimensions yield 11.5 BF, they need a new calculator and you need a new supplier." - Peter
As hard as it is to believe that someone might buy wood but take only part of what was paid for, the following story added further proof. - Editor
"An anecdote: I saw a homeowner, convinced his contractor would try to screw him on materials, buy his own stock for a mahogany mantle from the lumberyard. He wanted a piece of sixteen quarter, 9 foot by 12 inch African mahogany. He had it flattened and planed, jointed and ripped, sanded on the wide belt, ready to be turned into one giant mantle. Problem is, the wood in stock was in 16 foot lengths. We couldn't seem to explain clearly enough to the guy that he was buying 16 feet at that price, and that he had paid for 16 feet, and he owned all 16 feet. Would he like us to mill the rest or just put it in his truck? He kept insisting he only needed 9 feet, and refused to understand that he had paid for all 16, so he left it!" - Peter