Dust Collector Noise from WoodWeb

The woodworker who began this thread was getting benefit from his dust collector -- but he was also getting a lot of noise, and wondered if there were any solutions to this problem. - Editor

"I have been using my Oneida Dust Gorilla for the last year and have been reasonably happy with it. I am, however, very tired of the noise level. Early on, I had built a box around the filter and lined it with foam and this only made a small difference. I am wondering if I had the duct work insulated either with fiberglass or spray foam if this would make a significant difference? 
I have a 1,200 square foot shop and have the machine located inside so it won't suck out the A/C every 5 minutes. I live in south Georgia and it is important for not only comfort, but humidity level, to have the building climate controlled. Important financially to have the collector located inside. 
Any other noise advice on this would be appreciated."- - Jim B.

Those who responded had a few different suggestions. - Editor

"I have an Oneida system, but placed the fan and cyclone above a small, airtight room on the outside of the building. The exhaust is routed back into the shop via a filter bag setup that is in the shop. This makes it much more livable. The heated or cooled air is recycled back into the shop, clean, and there is no pressure differential between inside and outside. Oneida also offers mufflers for their systems. I'd contact them for design help." - David S.

"We put a muffler/silencer from Air Handling Systems on our big cyclone and it cut the noise level down. Still noisy, but much better." - J.R. R.

"I vented mine outside, and it makes an amazing difference. I was worried about the heat loss in the winter, but so far I'd rather have the quiet than the heat. I only run the DC when needed so it's not usually that bad. I still have the setup for the filter if feel like changing it back." - Leo G.

"We built a box with stud walls, and filled the cavities with insulation around ours, and it has helped tremendously. We have a door on it. We are adding these as soon as they show up." - C.M.

If trying to vent a system outside, one respondent reminded those in the discussion, it's necessary to be careful for safety's sake. - Editor

"If a system is vented to the outside, there is a chance of problems with a vented heating system. That is, the fumes that need to go out the heating chimney are sucked back in by the dust exhaust fan, and can kill you. If a (inswing) door to the exterior is sucked open or hard to close, and you have a heat source that requires any sort of vent, there can be a problem. The first pro shop I worked in had a setup that could be vented to the outside or inside, and if done incorrectly could fill the break room and shop with CO2. I found people getting sleepy in there more than once before we decided to take it to management and get it changed." - David S.

Aged Wood Color Enhancement from Woodworking.com

This woodworker's first project was with old wood -- for which he was trying to maintain the color, without getting stuck with splinters. - Editor

"I am new to woodworking and I am about to undertake my first project. I have purchased some aged recycled wood which I plan on turning into a bed head[board]. Basically, I want to enhance the grey aged look of the wood, but I have no idea what the best way to go about it is. The other issue I face is splinters. I have bought some 240-grit sand paper just to clean it up slightly, but any suggestion on ways to keep the aged look while protecting from splinters would be much appreciated." - Z.K.M.

Suggestions from others included planing, finishing, and wire brushing. - Editor

"You may have to determine just how weathered that you want the wood to look. Anything you do to smooth the wood is going to remove material, therefore removing some of that patina. Another option is simply to try and seal the wood with numerous coats of some sort of finish. This would possibly preserve the color (depending on the finish chosen) and possibly reduce the opportunity for splinters, but, to apply enough coats to build up to that point, you would end up with something much more shiny that what it sounds like you want. Personally, I would plane the wood removing the rough texture, but possibly trying to only do enough to smooth it without removing all of the patina in the wood. It would change the color to more of a natural wood color, but not quite down to the point of looking like new, fresh-cut wood. Which brings up another point, anywhere you have to cut the wood, it is going to expose fresh wood that is not going to have that gray coloring. Another reason to consider planing the wood smooth." - Doc H.

"I work with reclaimed wood on occasion, and one way to reduce the splinters without losing the 'old look' is with a wire brush, either handheld or as a wire wheel in an angle grinder. You will 'brush away' the softer wood and most of the splinters, leaving behind the harder 'late wood.' Try it on a bit of scrap and see if you like the results -- the brushing will give the wood a 'weathered texture,' which you may or may not like. And, as doc stated, adding a finish will also help 'lock in' the loose fibers. The finish will also darken the overall tone, which may 'enhance' the weathered look. The only way to tell the result for sure is to try a couple different techniques on some scrap pieces. Keep track of the process so you can duplicate whatever you deem as a successful sample." - Jerry M.