Router Speed: from WoodCentral
“I'm running a half-inch dovetail bit half an inch deep in walnut. What speed should I run my router?” – Tom
First, came a suggestion other than speed. – Editor
“How about running a straight bit first? Half by half is a lot of hardwood to be removing in one swipe.” – Kneale
“I'd say 16,000 or so, but not over 18,000 rpm. As suggested by another poster, it's easier on your bit to rout the joint with a straight bit first.” – Norh
The next suggestion was one that makes sense on straight or edge cuts, but as the poster afterward points out, does not work for dovetails. – Editor
“Don't cut in one pass. You can go full speed but not in one pass. Take a little off at a time.” – Del
“How do you take smaller bites with a dovetail bit?” – Kneale
Finally, a woodworker who had just done a similar cut had this to say. – Editor
“Using a Keller jig, I just finished 12 drawers dovetailed all around. Half by half is a pretty standard cut that a good router, like a Bosch VS, has no trouble cutting in one pass. I learned long ago to listen to the tool while it is running and if it lugs, you’re running too slow. Fast enough to hear no reduction in cutter speed while under load is about right.” – Fred D
Plywood Blades: from WoodCentral
“I will be starting a new project in the next week or two that involves plywood. I generally use my Woodworker II for just about everything, but was thinking that I would like a good plywood blade to help avoid chipping out the plywood. What blade do you use for plywood and how do you like it?” – Kelly
“I use a 60-tooth ATB blade, industrial grade, for nearly everything but extensive ripping. A good quality 60- to 80-tooth ATB will turn out the best cut when combined with a zero clearance throat insert you can make or buy.” – Fred D
“I have never had any luck with a dedicated plywood blade. They seem to me to just mush through the plywood, leaving smaller tearout, but also not as clean a cut.” – Jesper
“I have two Leitz blades, of 60 and 80 teeth, which I use. If it’s critical, I also score the layout line with a knife to insure against tearout. Alternatively, I cover the kerf line with blue tape. Use a zero clearance insert as Fred indicated, as it supports the work close to the blade.” – George
“I've had luck with the Forrest Duraline Hi-AT melamine and plywood blade. Worked well on nice veneer plywood, and plywood with Formica® glued to the top and bottom.” – Jim
“I also own a Forrest HiA/T blade, which is made specifically for clean cutting in plywood and laminate, but to be honest, in most cases my well-sharpened Woodworker II does a perfectly acceptable job with all but the most persnickety plywood face veneers. In any case, both offer cleaner cuts than the other dedicated plywood blades I've tried.” – Michael