Scraper: from
WoodCentral
"I like to think that I can sharpen hand scrapers, but the truth is that, despite my best efforts to do it right, they never seem to work very well. I mean, I get by, but it's not really satisfying the way I believe it should be. I start out filing flat, then smoothing with a stone, then burnishing with a special hard steel designed for the job. Still, only fair. What am I not doing right?" – Eliot
"How are you doing the burnishing? Are you doing repeated strokes at a particular angle followed by repeated strokes at a slightly increased angle? My initial problem with sharpening scrapers was going straight for the hook rather than sneaking up on the hook." – JL
"First and most importantly, don't obsess over the act. You don't need anything but a fine-tooth flat file and a hard drift pin. Flatten both sides with the file without rolling the edge. Clamp the scraper in the vise and file the edge flat and square by eye. File any fringe off the sides with a couple light swipes, then burnish the edge four or five times, successively increasing the angle from zero to about 30 degrees. Works for me." – Clint
"I agree that the problem is probably in the burnishing. The hardest thing to get under your hands is slightly increasing the angle of the burnisher with each stroke." – Michael
"Many people use way too much pressure when they burnish the edge after honing. This crumples the edge and makes the tool almost useless. I learned from Brian Boggs to give just a swipe or two across the burnisher with very little real pressure: about as much pressure as when you are swiping your credit card through the reader at the checkout counter. Try this. I bet it will help." – Ron
"I found that the biggest problem was being too aggressive when turning the burr in the final step. Use light pressure like spreading butter on bread, to quote Graham Blackburn, then test the burr with your finger. You should be able to feel quite a sharp edge burr hook when done right. If you use too much of an angle or pressure, then the burr will break off or won't be sharp. I suggest turning the burr in several light strokes, at least at first, testing with your finger after each stroke. Later, when you get a feel for the sharpness of the burr, you can try using just one stroke. Here is a link to a little gizmo that I got six years ago that has worked very well for me." – Jim
"One thing about card scrapers: they are not created equal. They vary in thickness and hardness of steel. The harder steels hold a burr longer, but are more difficult for a person new to the technique to get the hang of. A few light strokes with a small flat bastard file is all it takes. Don't worry about maintaining an exact 90-degree angle to the flat side. A degree one way or the other is not detectable in the result. I use a good, flat oilstone to remove the burr; it takes only seconds do remove it." – Fred
"My results improved dramatically when I began fixturing the scraper so the edge and sides are at right angles. For example, the filing step: a lot of people do this free-hand. I use a jig to make sure the cut is at right angles to the sides. Same with the stoning step: I jig it to make the three surfaces square. Also, I use a dab of mineral oil on the scraper for burnishing. However, I agree that perfect 90 degree angles aren't necessary. I suggest filing and stoning in a jig because it gives consistent results. A consistent angle on the scraper allows a consistent angle on the burnisher and improves the possibility that the burr will be useful. Think of it as training wheels on your first bike. For a beginner, a little assistance is good." – Ed
Of course, there's always room for a completely different view. – Editor
"Any newbies reading this thread would probably do what I did 19 years ago: throw the scraper in a drawer and let it rust, what with all the burr turning, honing and burnishing. That is, until I read the article in which the author clamps a metalworking bastard file to the bench, angles the scraper at approximately 20 degrees and, with four or five strokes on the file, it's ready to go and can produce a pile of thin shavings, even on hard, figured wood. The clear advantage is resharpening in 10 seconds and getting back to work. No muss, no fuss. I highly recommend it." – BK
Then why go the longer route? The next response explains why. – Editor
"That method is exactly how I file my handled paint scrapers for house painting preparation. As you say, it is quick to do and easy to learn. The extra stoning and burnishing steps give a more refined edge for smoother cuts." – Ed
Editor's Note: Need a visual to, well, envison sharpening your scraper? Woodworker's Journal editor Rob Johnstone has filmed a video on just that topic. Click here to check it out.
Square or Round?: from
Sawmill Creek
"I am attempting to build my first workbench and noticed some had square bench dog holes and some had round holes. Which is better and why?" – William
"Sam Allen's workbench book talks about the round dog holes being more versatile because they allow you to easily construct jigs or whatever that can plug into those holes. Round holes are certainly easier to retrofit to an existing bench. I think round dogs might be a little more versatile when to comes to holding round or curved pieces. Square dogs allow you to show off your workmanship, certainly look classy, and have to be better at holding straight material. No reason you couldn't do both." – Jerome
"Round holes accept holdfasts, so I'd go with round dog holes." – Rod.
"I built my bench with square holes. I wish I would've made them round -- much more useful." – Charlie
Eventually, someone came up with a best of both worlds suggestion. – Editor
"I have used both and both have their place. I suggest you make round holes and round dogs but make some round dogs and square one side of the top." – Sarge