to Avoid Woodworking Accidents: Potential Hazards and Safety Tips
first" is a common slogan, and the woodworker who began this
discussion thread wanted to remind others of a few things that
woodworkers, especially, should keep in mind about staying safe.
Others had their own ideas, as well -- what are your important
reminders? - Editor
isn't only about the skill and technical expertise involved in
carving, painting, laminating and the likes. You should also give
priority to the hazards involved in this type of work...Working with
hardwoods can pose a hazard to health mainly because of exposure to
its dust that is known to render woodworkers not only skin and nasal
allergic reactions but as well as make them more susceptible to a
specific kind of cancer. The
exterior of newly cut hardwood have saps that can trigger allergies
on the skin if there is direct contact. Even hardwood dust can cause
the same allergic reactions. A good example of this is rosewood,
which is commonly utilized in musical instruments. Other effects of
contact with dust can bring about a number of respiratory diseases
such as asthma, hypersensitive pneumonia and lung scarring caused by
repeated respiratory attacks. Examples would be cork, oak and
redwood. Prolonged exposure to hardwood dust is now connected with a
specific kind of nasal/sinus cancer called Adenocarcinoma. The
latency period of this type of disease is between 40 and 45 years.
Studies have shown that 7 of 10,000 woodworkers are more likely to
develop this disease.
can be very detrimental to hearing. Often than not, these woodworking
machines can be deafening as they reach a high of 115 decibels. ..
Before starting the art of woodworking, it is of importance to
protect your body from all the potential hazards that are present. It
is especially important to protect the eyes, ears, and the lungs.
Wearing clothes that aren't loose and gloves are recommended to
prevent skin irritation. Wearing of protective eye gears or goggles
protect woodworkers from debris flying from using hand tools to rip
wood. Also, these protective eye gears should be worn while applying
wood finish because the chemicals might dry the eyes. ... earmuffs or
ear plugs should be worn at all times. To protect the airways, there
are dust collectors, chip collectors, air filters and dust masks
available. It is important to keep the woodworking area
well-ventilated and orderly. You never know when dust particles may
enter the respiratory tract and cause harm.
with wood means using sharp tools, heavy and sharp equipments, and
electrically powered tools. To ensure that long-term damage will be
prevented, workers should always check that the tools used are sharp.
Heavy equipment should be used properly. There are cutting aids and
jigs that guide the wood. If hand tools are going to be used,
clamping the wood on the work table is advisable. Making sure that
electrical tools are well-grounded or are doubly insulated will
prevent electrical injuries or worse, fire accident."
recommend a full face shield, even when wearing shatterproof glasses
and goggles, when you are: •
turning on a lathe; •
working with eye irritant chemicals; •
any other place where metal or wood particles are hurled from the
machine at high speed. When
working with any rotating equipment, keep your sleeves turned down
and buttoned. When wearing an apron, keep it tied tightly to prevent
flapping edges. I have worked around rotating machinery for 60+ years
and am still learning new safety tricks. Bring them on."- Rex
all necessary safety gears. And never forget to stay focus with what
you're working. You can't be absent-minded while working inside
your shop. This will give you space to think well."- Bosox
Band Saw Owner - Need Advice from Sawmill Creek
This new owner of a band saw needed some tips on adjusting the blades. - Editor
picked up my first band saw, a Grizzly G055LX. Since
this is my first band saw, I don't really have much to compare it to,
but it seems to be a pretty well-built little machine. I do have a
few questions about adjustments, though. In the documentation, it
says to adjust the thrust bearing to .016 of the back of the blade.
This is no problem, but it also says to adjust the guide bearings to
'evenly and lightly contact the sides of the blade.' This seems to be
against everything I had read previous to making my purchase. I'm
wondering if this is actually the correct way to go.
have heard one preferred method is to wrap a dollar around the back
of the blade and adjust the guides to that. I have tried this, but if
anyone has adjusted one of these saws before - and it's like mine -
you'll know that adjusting the guide bearings evenly never quite
works out - one is always slightly different from the other no matter
how careful you try to be. Is there some trick to this? Seems once
you get them adjusted, they kind of just do whatever they want once
you tighten the cap screw down. More trial and error?
adjusting them with a spacer, regardless of how carefully I adjust
them, even when they look even, they seem to contact the blade
periodically when under power. I'm wondering if I have a bad blade or
what. I've tried all kinds of different blade tensions and spent
quite a bit of time tinkering with adjustments, etc., but something
seems to be running unevenly - is this something to even worry about?
Am I trying to hard to get it perfect?" - Jason D.
And he received a few ideas. - Editor
adjust the bearings so they're just barely not touching the lade. The
idea is that they should engage and support the blade when the piece
wants to move it out of position, but should not be engaged with no
load because they can force the blade out of true and put undue
stress on the bearings. Same with the thrust bearing. It is worth it
to learn the flutter method of adjusting blade tension. Then you can
see how it resonates under different tensions. It might be the case
that yorr blade is fluttering which will cause it to engage the
bearings." - Prashun P.
essence, set up the blade to cut perpendicular and parallel to the
table (minimize drift). Use an inexpensive blade built for your
intended purpose. As beginners, we'll damage a few blades - best that
they be cheap to replace." - Jim M.
just set blade tracking so the band is running in the middle of the
wheels and have no drift issues. If a band is tracking true and
starts drifting, it's time for a new band. I set my guides so they're
almost touching but not quite. Don't overthink it. Make some cuts and
see how it goes, but bands that come on new saws can lead to
frustration." - Curt H.
setting up guides. They usually move after tightening because they
were too loose and wobbly, or because the shaft is marked up from the
set screw. I believe on that [band saw] a sleeve tightens around the
shaft, so it wouldn't be marked up. Try keeping them a bit more snug
as you adjust them. The way I adjust mine is very simple and takes
seconds. After I've adjusted tension and tracking: 1) set bearing to
a bit behind the gullets; 2) tap on the blade and move the guide in
until the "click" goes away...and then back off a touch
until it comes back. That sets you up with minimal clearance; 3) do
the same on the other bearing; 4) bring the thrust bearing up to the
blade, and then gently push the blade back until the gullets are just
in front of the bearing. Lock down the thrust bearing. Alternatively,
for thrust bearings that move on a threaded shaft, push the blade
against the bearing and adjust until the gullets are in the right
tapping trick is remarkably sensitive and accurate.....and FAST.
Also, I generally feel the less tools and devices you use, the more
in tune you are with what you're doing. I use a very similar
technique to cut the nut slots on guitars, and I can nail the proper
clearance more accurately than I can measure." - John C.