Sweat on Wood? From WoodWeb
We've had a few 90-plus degree days here in the Woodworker's Journal neck of the woods, so this conversation – short as it was – about the impact of sweat on our wood's finishes caught our attention. - Editor
"What's the best remedy for removing hidden sweat drops that accidentally get on wood before staining? It's hot in these new homes, and almost impossible to not get a few drops of sweat on the wood before staining. I've heard to wipe the entire surface with a damp rag, then re-sand, then possibly apply a wood conditioner. I've also heard wiping with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits works, too. Any suggestions?" - Gcajnr
The response to this post suggested that the original poster just may have been overthinking things. - Editor
"We have never, at least to my knowledge, had sweat create any finishing problems when staining. Not that we haven't had the contact occur; it just has not shown up as a problem. If anything, I would try wiping with lacquer thinner or acetone. It will dry extremely fast, shouldn't raise much grain, and also should clean any oil or whatever from the perspiration. A quick hit with sandpaper wouldn't hurt either, but I would try not to spend a lot of time on this. I find messing around with spot areas on wood for staining has the potential to create a larger area that will not stain out the same as the surrounding areas." - Mitch S.
Better to Use 12/4 Wood, or 4/4 and Glue-up? From Sawmill Creek
This thread came from a woodworker about to build his first piece of furniture, who wondered whether he should 12/4 solid wood to get the width he needed, or 4/4 and do a glue-up. - Editor
"I'm contemplating starting my first piece of furniture. I have a cheap hand-me-down, knockdown design corner desk that is pretty awful looking. Can't remember how many times it's been painted, and is 40 years old, minimum. Probably more like 45+. I want something to match the bedroom furniture. [The bedroom dresser has] front corner legs 3" wide X 2 7/8" deep. Would it be better to glue up to get the size needed, or use some 12/4 solid wood? (knowing I can't get the 3" width) The current furniture looks to be glue-up, but not straight. It's like after the glue-ups, the pieces were cut on the bias to make the parts. It will be done in red oak to match as closely as possible the current pieces." - Jim O.
One suggestion was that he use the project as a woodworking education. - Editor
"Well, one advantage with a glue-up is you could use it to practice the method used in Craftsman style furniture to get four sides, all with a nice grain pattern. You know, like the Morris chair: three pieces to make the body of the leg, then two thinner laminates on two sides to make it all square to whatever dimension you are going for." - Dan K.
Other comments dealt with the tradeoff between speed and cost. - Editor
"Using 12/4 will get you there a lot faster but may cost a bit more initially. If it will give you the look you want I say go the most efficient route with the 12/4." - Eiji Fuller
"No need to use 12/4 to avoid visible seams. You may be able to get it from your roughsawn 4/4, but you can surely get it from 5/4. You run the 4/4 face diagonally in the post. The front piece only needs to be 7/8 thick to completely hide the glue faces." - Jamie B.
"Whatever you do, try to find single boards for the drawer fronts (no glue-ups!)" - Frank D.
"If appearance isn't the primary goal, then I would certainly opt for the glue-up. It'll likely be easier to find 4/4 stock with good grain patterns than 12/4 as you'll have a lot more to choose from. If it was my first go at furniture quality pieces, I'm not sure I could stomach a screwup on expensive 12/4 stock!" - Ben D.
The original poster thanked the commenters in the thread for their suggestions and revealed his plans for going forward. - Editor
"Baby steps, baby steps! I'll use the best-looking side forward and won't care about the rest! ...I think I'll do the glue-up. Not too worried about keeping the grain where it looks like it's all quartersawn. Just don't want it to warp badly while I'm building it. … I'll only have one short drawer, so it will be very easy to do the front out of one piece." - Jim.