First Five Tools for a Newbie
from Woodworking.com
The
poster who started this thread is in the process of converting his
garage into a workshop and wanted a list of the first five tools he
should acquire. - Editor
"I
want to turn my garage into a woodworking shop. I can't buy
everything at once, so please make me a list in order you would buy
for a new shop. I have a [circular saw] and a jigsaw. Thank you."
- Volt Amps
He
got consensus on the first one. - Editor
"A
good table saw would be my first purchase, for sure."- Josh G.
"That'd
be my first choice, too." - Scott S.
But,
after that, the discussion seems to have hit a roadblock. So, eZine
faithful, any advice for him? What tools would you put on the list
for numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5? - Editor
What Size Rabbet Bit Do You Use
Most? from Sawmill Creek
An impulse purchase of a rabbeting
bit led this woodworker to wonder if he did the right thing -- or if
a different size, or a different purchase, would have better served
his needs. - Editor
"I
bought a rabbeting bit on a whim today. It's not a huge purchase but,
on a tight budget, I'm trying to make every purchase count. They had
3/8-inch and 1/2-inch to choose from. I didn't know what one to get
and, since I was on a limited budget, I only got one. I took the 3/8
but now I'm wondering if I should have bought the 1/2 instead. What
would you use the 3/8 rabbet for? Any specific projects? Is one more
useful than the other? When I bought it, I was thinking about edge
routing on 3/4-inch thick boards also, but that means routing the
wood upon its edge instead of lying flat, right? If I routed it flat,
then all I'd be doing is rabbeting the board along the flat side. I
was thinking at the time that the bit would be useful for making
furniture backing from luan plywood and rabbeting out the edge for it
to sit on. Doing this on the broad side of the board will make the
rabbet too deep. Upright on the edge seems like it would be wobbly
and best done on the table with a straight bit instead of freehand,
so I might have bought a bit I don't really need. Is it really that
bad if I routed a 3/8 rabbet for 1/4 inch laun ply to go into? I want
to say no so I can just use the bit for this and life is easy, but
there's part of me that thinks that's the easy way out and not the
level of quality I want in my work." - Duane B.
Some
thought the rabbeting bit was the wrong thing entirely. - Editor
"I
don't use a rabbet bit with bearing for the very reason you state. To
use that 3/8 like you intend, you have to route on edge. I use a 3/4"
straight bit and a edge guide. I lay the board flat. Set the bit 3/8
deep. Set the fence for the thickness of the plywood back. Plywood is
metric or slightly undersized, so a 1/4 or 1/2" rabbit bit would
not be perfect either." - Cary F.
"Not
sure if I'm following you right, but sounds to me like what you
really need is an edge guide or better yet ... a router table! I use
rabbeting bits that come with a full set of bearings so that I can
adjust the depth of cut to whatever I need. If I can't get it exact
with the bearings I run it on a router table or with an edge guide
or, depending on the circumstance, with just a straightedge clamped
to the piece. Always more than one way to skin a cat!" - Jeff D.
And
this respondent thinks he should wait until he could get a kit with
all sizes at once. - Editor
"I
use a 1/2" rabbet the majority of the time. This is usually to
create rabbets for 1/2" backs. Using a 1/2" allows me to
use nails or even screws if necessary to hold my backs in place. It
also leaves less meat to sand flush after I'm done. My advice would
be to return the set and wait until you feel comfortable buying a
rabbeting set with multiple bearings. I believe my set allows for six
different widths." - Johnny M.
What
about you? Do you use a rabbeting bit? If so, what size do you
prefer? - Editor