Dowel Woes: from WoodCentral
"I'm joining two pine boards together at right angles using a butt joint reinforced with dowels. The joint is over six feet long. I'm drilling the dowels 11 inches apart. I start on one end, drill a hole, move the board 11 inches by inserting a dowel in the hole and pushing the dowel up against a stop. Then I drill another hole, put a dowel in it, re-register, until the end of the board. I do that on both boards I'm joining. When I finish and go to dry fit the two boards together, the holes on the opposite end of the board are at least a quarter inch off. As I re-register and re-drill, the registering error adds up. I'd like to figure out how to eliminate the registering error. I know I could use a biscuit joiner or a spline instead of dowels, but right now dowels are what I'm set up to do and I'd like to get to the bottom of this." — Nathan
Several layout suggestions were offered, and at least two people suggested making a full-length doweling jig. — Editor
"Now I remember why I stopped using dowels. First, if you are joining the boards edge to edge, you don't need dowels or biscuits at all, just use glue like Titebond®. Drill a pattern piece that is the same length as the boards and drill all the holes in it. Then register it on each piece you wish to dowel and drill through the holes in it. That way, even if the holes are somewhat random, they will be the same in each piece. Be careful to register it off the same end and edge of the piece you wish to line up. Or put the two boards side by side, edges up, and use a knife or sharp pencil to draw a line across both where the dowels should be. Then center the marks on each board and drill them. The knife cut works for this because the bit may center up on it." — Barry
"For doweling accuracy, I've never found a better method than this one: Make a hardwood strip about an inch and a half square the full length of the joint you are trying to dowel together. Drill holes at whatever spacing you want. Attach tabs to the sides, ends or edges of your strip to index on whatever edges of the work pieces are most logical. Hold or clamp the strip to each piece in turn and drill your holes. You can't go wrong." — Ellis
Of course, there is a simple tool for positioning one hole relative to an already drilled one. This writer calls them dowel points, but most catalogs in the U.S. call them dowel centers. — Editor
"I use dowel points. They work great. They are little brass things that go into the hole in one side of the board. Join the other board to it and the points that protrude from the brass make their point on the adjoining board. That's where you drill your adjoining dowel hole." — Roberts
Climb Cutting: from WoodCentral
"I repeatedly see the practice of climb cutting described in wood magazines and even recommended as a way to reduce tearout while doing a router run with a handheld router when you run into a interlocked or reversed grain. Having done this for many years, I know how dangerous it could be for a first attempt, when a novice really doesn't realize how much power the router can exert trying to leap out of your grasp, often ruining the wood profile cut and maybe taking a chunk out of your front end. Depending on the size of the router bit and the depth of cut, it is a practice that requires all of your attention and focus and can still occasionally backfire on you. So I would say from my point of view, if you climb cut, be very careful." — Fred
Of course, all tools require attention and care, but this technique is indeed more risky than some, and many agreed with Fred. — Editor
"Climb cutting is something that is hard to describe in words, yet every magazine and instructor seems to recommend it as an option for routing where the grain direction is unfavorable. I've always shied away from recommending climb cutting simply because of the touchy-feely aspect that is so critical to success and safely. Routers are precision instruments. Most of the time, we achieve our desired results by holding our routers and/or our workpieces rigidly in relation to each other. Climb cutting goes against our natural instinct. To do it successfully, you have to carefully test how much force the bit is going to be exerting as it attempts to fling your work piece in the direction of rotation. Even then, you need to constantly be aware and able to moderate your pressure to allow the router to climb without digging in and ruining your whole day. Yet, you need to be ready to control any tendency of the router to run away. I'd welcome more discussion on this." — Ellis
"I agree that magazine recommendations for the hobby woodworker are ill-advised. It requires lots of feel and light bites. My first climb cut was on a router table and the piece of white oak shot across the shop and broke a panel on the garage door. I've never forgotten it." — Chris
"I'd second that. Usually you're better off sneaking up on the final profile and taking the last cut to remove just a tiny amount of wood. Good sharp bits, the right speed and proper wood are generally better than climb cutting. The few times I've had to do it, I prefer to have the router in the table and good control over the wood using guides, push pads and so on. Another rule of thumb here - just because it's in a magazine doesn't mean it's a good idea." — Stephen
While some would rather avoid it, this writer insisted it is a valuable skill. — Editor
"I can't imagine doing woodwork without it. I think it is easier to use a powerful router with a larger bit for climb cutting than a underpowered motor with a small bit. When the motor slows down, the bit can't take a proper size bite. When this happens, the user's tendency is to let up or relax, and the router takes off. It is easier to choke a small router down to that level than one with enough power to just keep cutting. You just have to know that the bit is turning clockwise as you look down on it when hand held, so it will want to go counter-clockwise whenever in contact with the work. Learning proper holding positions and stance are important, and knowing what you can do, and what you should not even try is very important. If you don't know your limitations, and what to expect, it may make it dangerous for you, but that doesn't mean that it is dangerous for everyone." — Keith
He makes a good point. What is safe for someone with one level of experience is not necessarily safe for you. Make sure you know the risks, challenges and safety precautions before you attempt any new task, and don't be afraid to stop and learn from someone first. — Editor