Woodworkers Journal 1
spacer
USWJournalBanner
EZINE HOME    | Tool Preview    | Q&A    | Feedback    | Industry Interview    | Free Plans    | Calendar    | Contact Us    | Web Surfer's Review
Tricks of the Trade    | Crossword Puzzle    | Reader's Project Gallery    | What's In Store    | Today's Woodworker    | Schools    | eZine Staff    | Archive

Q & A


Polyethylene for Miter Guides
Can I use UHMW polyethylene stock in the appropriate thickness for miter guides to screw to the bottom of homemade crosscut sleds and the like? Is it dimensionally stable enough and will it wear well?

Cross Cut SledTim Inman: I've done it many times, but I find that a good hardwood stick does just as well. In fact, I prefer well-waxed maple slides for most of my jigs and fixtures.

John Brock: Yes. I found I needed to run a fresh file down the sides of the miter slots in my table saw to remove a couple of rough spots. Then the UHMW polyethylene works well for miter guides. The only complaint is it will wear over time, depending on use and the roughness of your miter slots.   


Bend Oak Without Steaming?
How can I bend 3/8-inch oak with a cutout design, which is for the back of a rocking chair, without steaming it? The cutout design makes it impossible to cold bend without breaking it.

LaminationsChris Mroz:
Use red oak Compwood to cold bend the seat back. It will bend cold, by hand, in these thin dimensions. But you could go a lot thicker. Compwood that is 1-inch thick can bend to a 5-inch radius, so a seat back radius will not challenge the material. Support the inside of the bend with a bending form made on a band saw from scrap plywood or lumber. Clamp the plank to the form and let it dry to about 7 percent moisture content, or until it is equalized with its environment. You can put in the cutout design before or after bending, but it will be easier to create the cutout on the flat plank and then bend it, but either way, Compwood will machine just like any kiln-dried hardwood.

For more information on Compwood and what it does, check out the Industry Interview on Fluted Beams in this issue. – Editor

Andy Rae: It sounds like you have a strong case for laminations. Rip your stock into thin strips. Do a test-bend, but somewhere in the region of 3/16 in. thick is a starting point. Glue them back together in the order they were sawn. Use a rigid glue, such as plastic resin or two-part, slow-cure epoxy, and a shop-made bending form and plenty of clamps. A hard glue minimizes spring-in or spring-back, or the tendency for the lamination to move away from the desired curve after the glue has cured. It would be easiest to make your cutout design after laminating the strips, perhaps with a straight bit, a router and another homemade jig to guide the cut.



Extra-long Bits in Small Sizes
Are there extra long bits in small sizes? I need a way to drill tiny holes less than one sixteenth but more than two inches long.

Tim Inman:  Simple! Use a piece of drill rod in the size you need for your hole and grind a spear point on it. Drill rod is very commonly available from machine shop suppliers. Grind an old-fashioned spear point on the end and put it in an electric drill. Ancient woodworkers always used spear points. I use one that is about 16 inches long to drill sneaky little holes in furniture joints when I need to inject steam into them through a needle I use, to get the joints apart.  



Advertisement