Q & A

Bubbles in Clear Poly Finish

I'm having trouble with my finishing and wondered if you could give me some advice. Every time I apply a clear polyurethane finish, I get hundreds of tiny bubbles in it. I've tried different types of brushes and strokes and even mixing techniques, still have the same problem.  Any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

Rob Johnstone: Is your finish water-based or oil-based? If it is water-based, thin it 5 percent or so and then use a flat painters pad (with the short nylon bristles). If it is oil-based poly, thin it 15 percent and use a good quality varnish brush. They are not cheap, but they will last for years and years if you clean them properly. Don't work the finish back and forth with your brush, try to just lay down one smooth coat per application. Personally, I am a fan of the wipe-on poly variety. It is easy to apply and lays down smooth. You just need to put a few more coats on to get the same degree of protection.
Hope this helps.

Lift for Benchtop Tool?

I have a benchtop planer (Dewalt) that I don't want to store on the bench or use a separate stand because of the footprint.  I want to store it on a shelf below, but at about 90 pounds, it's tough to move from shelf to benchtop, and I know as I get older, it'll get harder.  What can I get to raise it from the shelf to the benchtop safely and easily?  Lift mechanisms I've found (like for commercial kitchen mixers) have a 60 pound capacity.

Chris Marshall: I can’t recall seeing dedicated benchtop tool lift mechanisms on display at the trade shows, but if they exist, I hope other eZine readers will bring it to our attention. It would be a great idea - those benchtop planers are extremely heavy! However, I have seen project plans for shop-made systems that tip or tilt tools up into position on a workbench or cabinet. Browse through some workshop project books for help if you’d like to build one. If readers out there have come up with a clever design for this application, write in and share it with this questioner (and with us!).

Zero-Clearance Throatplate for Contractor's Saw

I have VERY limited space in my basement. I bought a Sears Table Saw that’s along the lines of a contractor's saw. Can these saws be fitted with zero-clearance inserts? Also, is there a method for creating a cut-off table for this saw?

Chris Marshall: If the throatplate for your saw fits down into a fairly deep recess in the table, you should be able to make zero-clearance throatplates for it pretty easily. Make sure the thickness of your throatplate material matches the thickness of the throatplate that came with your saw. Here’s a link for how to make common throatplates with a router:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/
TableSawTechniques/ThroatPlate/index.html

On the other hand, if your saw’s throatplate is made out of a thin piece of steel, it will be more difficult or even impractical to make a zero-clearance throatplate for it. One option you can try is to cover the blade opening on your throatplate with a piece of wide packing or painter’s tape, then raise the blade up through it to cut a thin slot. This can serve as a quick, makeshift solution for zero clearance.

Concerning cut-off tables, since your saw has a motor that extends out in back of the machine, I would suggest making a work table that you can roll or slide up behind the saw instead of attaching a cut-off table to it. Make the table’s overall height about 1/4 in. lower than your saw table. The extra work table will help with other shop tasks as well as provide a way to catch those offcuts coming off the saw. You’ll kill two birds with one stone!