Understanding Oil and Wax Finishes

Understanding Oil and Wax Finishes

Learn how to apply oil and wax wood finishes.

Many woodworkers turn to oil and wax finishes for their first attempt at finishing, and for good reason. They are easy to apply, give almost foolproof results, require no applicators beyond a rag and leave wood looking both rich and natural. Turners especially love them because they adapt perfectly to finishing wood still turning on the lathe.

If there is one Achilles’ heel these popular finishes suffer from, it is their lack of durability. You would probably not choose a simple oil or wax finish for a bar top or kitchen table that will be assaulted with scratches, hot coffeepots or strong solvents, but they are perfect for bookcases, jewelry boxes, turnings, picture frames, blanket chests and a host of similar objects. While a wax finish can go on any type of wood, avoid putting oil (or Danish oil) on aromatic cedar or any of the dalbergia woods (rosewood, cocobolo, tulipwood). These woods contain an antioxidant that will prevent the oil from curing.

Wax Finish

wax finishes

Sold in liquid, paste, and solid stick forms, waxes are formulated in a host of colors. You’ll find them in clear, amber, a range of wood tones and even white. Some waxes are softer, some are harder, but even the hardest waxes are softer than lacquers and varnishes. The fact that they are soft means they offer very little protection against scratches and wear. Waxes are derived from a variety of mineral, vegetable and animal sources. As a finish, waxes don’t penetrate wood, but rather sit atop it. They will prevent it from oxidizing (turning gray) but don’t particularly enhance the wood. In other words, once a coat of clear wax dries on the wood, it will look like freshly cut, but unfinished, wood.

Liquid or paste wax typically contains some solvent, and the wax “cures” as the solvent evaporates. Virtually all waxes will dissolve in mineral spirits or naphtha, which is handy to know should you ever need to remove wax, either from wood or on top of a finish. Most waxes melt at very low temperatures, so they don’t offer much in the way of heat resistance. However, they do shed water, which helps them resist food and drink spills. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don’t put other finishes over wax. To apply liquid or paste wax, simply rub it on and wipe it off. A Scotchbrite™ pad or fine steel wool makes a good applicator; then wipe with paper shop towels. If you wipe the wax off immediately, it will leave a dull sheen as it dries. For more shine, let it dry, then buff it with a soft cloth.

Oil Finish


Oil is made of molecules small enough to seep down into the wood rather than merely sit on top. As a result, oil makes wood look richer and more translucent without adding a film on the surface. There are two different types of oils that woodworkers use: drying and non-drying oils. Drying oils will change from liquid to a solid film when exposed to oxygen in the air. Nut oils (boiled linseed, tung, etc.) are drying oils, but vegetable (peanut, olive) and mineral oils are non-drying. Edible mineral oil is popular on food contact items, like cutting boards. However, non-drying oils stay wet indefinitely, and they will wash off when the board is scrubbed with soap and water. Because they do not dry to a solid film, non-drying oils are considered a wood treatment, but not a finish. The most common and least expensive of the drying oils is boiled linseed oil. Tung oil dries a little bit faster than linseed oil, and sometimes it is modified to cure even more quickly.

To apply an oil finish, flood it onto the wood, adding extra to keep the surface wet in areas where the oil is quickly absorbed. After 10 minutes, wipe off everything that has not been absorbed. For a smoother, richer finish, repeat the process, this time sanding the oily wood with fine wet-and-dry sandpaper. This will create a slurry of oil and wood dust, filling tiny pores and leaving the surface even smoother.

Danish Oil Finish Mixes Oil and Poly


Danish oil, often lumped in as an oil finish, is actually a thin oil and varnish mixture. The oil helps bring out wood’s beauty, while the varnish resin offers somewhat more protection against chemicals, heat, scratches and stains than either oil or wax. Typical of this group is Watco®, both the oldest and best-selling. Many woodworkers create their very first finish using Watco and return to it frequently. It comes in a variety of colors as well as natural (clear). The directions on the can are excellent: Apply it liberally to the wood, let it soak in for 15 minutes, reapply, then wipe off the surface. Use Watco either as a one-coat penetrating finish, or to add as many subsequent coats as you like. Applied no more than one coat per day, you can build up a finish as thick, beautiful, and durable as varnish, with no brushes to clean or brush marks to rub out. The good news is that a multi-coat Watco finish is durable enough for most anything you make, even kitchen cabinets or a dining room table.

  • Brooke Pridemore

    Very thorough. Thanks for the knowledge!

  • Alexander Snay

    I wish I knew about oils two days ago before I tried to put polyurethane on my project. Now I have a mess of not looking good wood.

  • Vx 777

    Great I was looking for oil for a homemade table, I am going to try Danish oil

  • Chris Wurster

    Novice question… I made a table from reclaimed barn wood. Treated it with mineral oil and thought it looked great. Problem is… Anything I put in the table is wicking the oil out. Do I need to coat over it with wax or Polly. Or do I have another option. Thank you!!

  • http://kortneewithak.wordpress.com/ Kortnee With-a-k

    OKAY… I am truly hoping somebody is reading these questions since the last one was posted many months ago… I need help!!!! Can wood that has been oiled receive a coat of polyurethane afterwards? I accidentally spilled some citronella oil (the mosquitos were driving me mad!) on a beautiful piece of mesquite which is already sanded and ready for stain/polyurethane. (It will be used in an outdoor covered patio area)
    Is it ruined????

    • Peter W

      It will be difficult to make the surface even in colour if the spill was just in one place. I might be tempted to oil the whole top in citronella to the same contamination level. Then after a day or two use pure turpentine to leach out as much as possible with plenty of dry rags. After a few more days drying it should then take a thin clear poly or preferably danish oil finish – one very thin coat per day. However now its oily you cannot stain it. Live with the colour!

    • jtakes

      See the Questions and Answers section of Woodworker’s Journal eZine 383 for a detailed answer to this question: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/oily-mesquite-ruined/

      - Joanna Takes, Woodworker’s Journal

  • Ron

    I need some advice. I am making a coffee table with polished stone and copper inlay flush with the table top. I am a complete noobie at this and i am not sure what to use to finish the top. Is there any product that will adhere to the wood stone and copper without flaking off? Please help. I have searched the internet for a week and cannot find an answer. I even wrote to minwax and they said they have no such product.
    Thanks ,

  • Summer Hogan

    It is okay to cover the Danish Oil with polyurethane, particularly on kitchen cabinets, correct? Thanks in advance!

  • Ingrid Kiss

    how do you remove an antiquing wax finish for example from a rustic oak piece if you realize only after applying that you need to sand the surface more…?

  • joshua bratt

    I’m putting tung oil on a sycamore log and noticing that the end grain is soaking up the first coat like a sponge, (first coat was a half and half mix of pure tung oil and turpentine) with that mix, should i saturate the end grain multiple times until it stops taking the thinned oil? The sides of the log only took a normal coat to reach saturation.

  • Justin Haaheim

    SO HELPFUL. Thank you for writing this!

    I’m using 100% tung oil to finish an IKEA butcher block oak counter top. It’s going on well and seems to be soaking in, but after 5 days and 3 coats it still doesn’t seem to be very water resistant/repellant. Is this normal? Will that change as the oil continues to dry?

    Has anyone had experience with IKEA’s Behandla wood treatment oil? The formulation I saw at the store is tung oil, linseed oil, methylcellulose, lead free drying agent, plant-based emulsifier, water. Is that likely to dry any faster, or provide any stronger/more waterproof of a finish?

  • Rebecca

    Can you please tell me, if I were to use Danish oil on internal hardwood stair railings, would I be able to at a later date varnish over them? Also how much care and maintenance would they need using Danish oil?

  • Judy

    I just did a minwax finishing wax finish on my table, it was on old dry wood, I feel like the table is so dry it is just absorbing the wax and I may need to do at least a 3rd coat of wax, it’s getting water rings and is not repelling water, any recommendation on a different or better wax?

  • JJW

    I have a natural oak dining table. No finish, just a wax coat. We got a white heat mark on it from a hot plate. We do not want to put a finish on it but we do want to get rid of the heat marks. What would you recommend to get rid of it?

  • shirleydrodgers

    I have a dining table that I believe is close to 100 years old. It looked like it possibly had an oil rub originally, but nothing after that. After carefully washing and sanding, I applied Watco oil finish with a dark walnut tint. It has been 3 days and the oil hasn’t dried yet. What should I do?

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