Archive for February, 2010

Sideways Squeeze

February 26th, 2010 by
2 Comments »

For the June print issue, I’m building a big plywood shop project. Several pieces in the project include some rather thick edging strips, which can be difficult to clamp tightly in place. Especially when they’re on the ends of an 8-ft. sheet of plywood.

I’ve used thicker edging before in a few projects, and each time I’ve wondered about those funky C-clamps made for jobs like these. They’ve got three screw jaws instead of just one—the most helpful being the third that runs through the spine of the clamp, perpendicular to the other two.

Well, last week I took the plunge and bought a half dozen to give them a try.

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Boat-Shaped Cradle

February 22nd, 2010 by
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I was a little late getting this posted (it came in over the holidays), but I wanted to share this striking piece of work that I would guess even experienced boat builders would appreciate.

Here is a baby cradle that I just finished for my new nephew (Christmas present).  Many more hours than I had planned, but well worth the effort.

- Russ Oswald

I wouldn’t be surprised if the little one grows up being drawn to a life at sea …

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

Products for Safer Sawing

February 19th, 2010 by
2 Comments »

No matter how many years I’ve used a table saw, my blood still runs cold when I think about the potential for a kickback that leads to injury. Thank goodness it hasn’t happened to me. But, others in our community haven’t been so fortunate. You don’t have to search woodworking forums for too long before you’ll find direct proof. The scary photos and war stories are definitely out there. There’s no debating the fact that kickback is one of the leading causes of table saw accidents. We all know it, but what are we doing in our shops to prevent it?

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Many Multi-Tool Options for Woodworking & DIY

February 17th, 2010 by
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As a follow-up to Chris Marshall’s sneak-peek at the April 2010 issue, we put together a video showing some of the Multi-Tools and attachments he’ll be covering in the new “Today’s Shop” article.

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

Bandsaw Jewelry Boxes

February 15th, 2010 by
8 Comments »

These bandsaw boxes caught my eye with the smooth curves and unique wood selection.

1.  Hickory
2.  Zebrawood
3.  Walnut Sapwood

Handcrafted by Dave and Kathy Dye
“Retired and recommending it”

But that’s just my opinion; make sure to leave some feedback in the Comments section!

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

April Issue Uncovered

February 12th, 2010 by
1 Comment »

Despite the snowy prospects here in Minnesota, it’s time to think spring. To that end, we’re happy to announce that the April print issue of Woodworker’s Journal is headed to your mailbox and should be arriving shortly. With any luck, it will bring us all warmer weather and longer days! Here’s a quick look at some of the great new content you’ll find inside:

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Not So Serious Business

February 8th, 2010 by
2 Comments »

Most of my projects don’t get many laughs. Or at least, I don’t intend them to.

I bet you’re probably in the same boat. We woodworkers spend a lot of time thinking about form, function, good technique, the right material choices, durability, safety and so forth. Most projects have an intended and practical purpose. And, I think those are all good aims. Materials are expensive, and shop time is often pretty short. Not to mention the fact that if you actually make your living—or even part of it—from the furniture or cabinetry you build, there’s not a lot of room for funny business. You follow your plans, turn out good work and move on to the next challenge. Get ‘er done.

That’s why some lighthearted woodworking is a really nice change of pace to see now and again. Take, for instance, this little YouTube gem a friend of mine sent me recently:

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Cyanoacrylate: Everything You Need to Know

February 5th, 2010 by
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Woodworker’s Journal eZine readers wanted to know more – much more – about cyanoacrylate (CA) glue after one of their members told a tale of searching high and low for the stuff, described here in the WJ eZine Q&A section. In response, finishing expert Michael Dresdner was happy to oblige them with an in-depth look at this interesting adhesive.

Cyanoacrylate  (sigh-an-no-ack-rill-ate)
When cyanoacrylates first burst onto the scene with distinctive trade names like Crazy Glue, Super Glue and Hot Stuff, they brought unimagined speed to the field of adhesives. Cyanoacrylate (or CA in shorthand) is the fastest setting of all adhesives. A variety of formulations exist from ultra-thin to thick gels, and with setting times that vary from just one or two seconds to over a minute. They are all clear, waterproof, and require no clamping, so you can simply hold parts in place until the glue sets. CA is triggered by either moisture or alkalines, but once it starts to cure it continues on its own, making it a true one part self-crosslinking adhesive.

Characteristics
Cyanoacrylate is instant adhesive, so you have little or no time to align parts. Manufacturers offer very watery versions, which are too thin to be gap filling and only work on perfectly mated parts, or gap filling thick versions which usually dry slower and work better on wood. CA will bond a variety of materials including glass, ceramics, plastic, abalone, etc., and special versions are offered to deal with oily woods and bonding metals to wood. It can be used at almost any temperature both indoors and out. In all cases, CA forms a permanent waterproof bond, but you can reverse it with high heat (above 350 degrees F) or a special debonder solvent.

Use For:

  • Fast setting or where clamping is impossible
  • Repairs (it will stick to old glue)
  • Glue size to seal end grain before staining
  • Crack or gouge filler when added to sawdust
  • Mounting green or dry blocks for turning
  • Finish on green or dry wood
  • Repairing chips in high tech finishes
  • Wood sealer to eliminate pinholes, and it case hardens

Avoid:

  • Complicated assemblies requiring long open time
  • Jobs where glue cost is an issue (it’s expensive)

Oddball Uses
Cyanoacrylate has been used for fingerprint analysis, solidifying fragile bones during archeological digs, repairing the crushed shell of a live tortoise, sealing petrified wood for lapidary, repairing a crumbling smokestack, assembling satellites, and gluing live bait to fish hooks.

Using the Adhesive
Start with a clean, dry surface. Apply CA to one side of the joint, then quickly press the parts together and hold them until the glue sets, usually in less than a minute. Don’t spread out the drop or bead, but instead let it squash when you join the parts. The more CA is spread out, the faster it will cure, and it won’t cure in a large puddle.

Use the smallest amount you need. Normally, one drop covers one square inch, but you’ll need more on porous surfaces including most woods. Excess glue does not add more strength. For very absorbent wood or open grain, use one of the thick formulations. CA cures slower on acidic woods like mahogany and oak, but you can use accelerator to overcome that. (see below – About Accelerator) .

To avoid clogging the tip, don’t touch it to the work or any surface, and don’t poke pins or nails into the opening either. If it does clog, unscrew the cap and remove the plug by pushing it through, or by soaking the cap in debonder. The debonding solvent is nitromethane, known to racing buffs as funny car fuel. Acetone will work in a pinch, but it works VERY slowly. It is a good idea to always have a bottle of debonder on hand, especially since you are likely to glue yourself to something at some point. Trust me, it’s inevitable.

Cyanoacrylate will stick to finish, but applying paste wax will block the glue. On the other hand, you can glue to a finished surface, something few adhesives will do. It will stick to old glue, so it’s ideal for repair work. CA is also frequently used to fill small chips in lacquer, polyurethane, and polyester finishes. Turners and luthiers fill cracks and small voids in raw wood by filling them with sanding dust, then dropping CA into the powder to form a solid plug. Thin versions will seep into even the smallest of fractures. Because it is moisture activated, it will work on wet wood, green wood, and pressure treated wood. Some folks use it as a finish or as a sealer under other finishes. Some turners alternate wet-on-wet coats of CA and boiled linseed oil to create an instant curing, extra hard oil finish.

About Accelerator
It seems odd that the fastest of all glues would need an accelerator, but it actually does more than just speed up the cure. You’ll get a better bond on oily or high acid content woods if you spray or wipe accelerator on one side of the joint before putting glue on the other. You can also speed up a bond by spraying accelerator on it after the parts are together. There are two common types of accelerators. When you use those that say “flammable” on the container, wait 60 seconds after you apply it before you join the parts, or before you spray accelerator onto a glued surface. Spraying these accelerators too soon can turn the glue white. For non-flammable accelerators, there is no waiting time needed. Wiping one side of the joint with water, alcohol, or baking soda also speeds the cure, but results in a substantially weaker glue bond and can also turn the glue white.

Warnings
It’s a good idea to wear disposable gloves and goggles to keep the glue off your hands and out of your eyes. CA is a bit like cutting onions in that the fumes are irritating to your eyes and lungs, but not particularly harmful. Contrary to internet rumor, CA is not carcinogenic and it does not contain cyanide. However, it is flammable. It will stick to skin, so be careful not to glue yourself to objects or you might end up as the topic of the next American Pie movie.

Storage and Shelf Life
How long CA lasts is affected by the size of the container. Smaller amounts have a shorter shelf life than larger ones. A 2 oz bottle will last at least a year at room temperature. Do not refrigerate opened containers as that can clog the tip and make the glue harden in the container. You can double the shelf life by freezing, but only unopened bottles. Let them warm to room temperature before you open them and don’t refreeze them.

Other Important Information

  • Some formulations are oily and/or hard to adhere woods
  • Mixed materials – yes
  • Some (NOT all) can be used for gap filling
  • No clamping required
  • Open time: a few seconds
  • Cure time: under a minute
  • Waterproof
  • Submersible
  • Apply to one side
  • Neither expands nor contracts while curing
  • Emits irritating and/or dangerous vapors

Wood to the Rescue!

February 3rd, 2010 by
2 Comments »

As a card-carrying member of the woodworking fraternity (and sorority … no bias here, sister), I have no problem making this general observation – we are a thrifty bunch. No shame to our tendency to stretch a dollar until it snaps, in fact, our penny-pinching ways are a badge of honor to most of us. Perhaps connected to this money saving mania, but perhaps a separate malady of it own, is the fact that we are opposed – perhaps on cellular level – to throwing scrap wood away. The combination of these two traits can lead to some frighteningly large collections of virtually unusable wood … until now!

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Quicker Dado Blade Set-ups

February 1st, 2010 by
3 Comments »
Label your blades and chippers, then keep track of combinations that you use often on cards you keep in your dado blade case.

Label your blades and chippers, then keep track of combinations that you use often on cards you keep in your dado blade case.

Well, this week I’ll be pulling out my dado blade and cutting some shelf dadoes for a big case goods project that will run in our June 2010 issue. Of course I’ll want to set it up accurately to cut nice, tight dadoes on my undersized plywood. It’s a  job that reminds me of a post I wrote last September. In case you didn’t see it then, I’d like to offer up a couple of tricks to make the set-up process faster and easier. They’ve come in awful handy for me.

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