Comments on: Banding Together http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/banding-together/ Wed, 08 Feb 2012 17:17:29 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Al http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/banding-together/comment-page-1/#comment-6376 Al Wed, 14 Apr 2010 05:28:19 +0000 http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=1423#comment-6376 I have always use a strip of the matching solid wood and used contact glue applied to the strip and the plywood. Let the glue dry and then bond them together using a rubber mallet to help them stick. With using a solid 4/4 strip and 3/4 ply there is a slight bit of strip to router off on both sides of the ply. When it is finished and sander the glue line doesn't show and it looks like solid. I have always use a strip of the matching solid wood and used contact glue applied to the strip and the plywood. Let the glue dry and then bond them together using a rubber mallet to help them stick. With using a solid 4/4 strip and 3/4 ply there is a slight bit of strip to router off on both sides of the ply. When it is finished and sander the glue line doesn’t show and it looks like solid.

]]> By: Kris http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/banding-together/comment-page-1/#comment-3087 Kris Fri, 29 Jan 2010 17:52:00 +0000 http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=1423#comment-3087 This is a tough one. I have been curious about the matched router bits as well. I work in a cabinet shop and when working with melamine with mdf or particle board core and plywood. we generally use a pvc or laminate edging. We have machines for the bulk of the work but have to glue by hand on smaller pieces. For this we use a water based contact cement. It leaves the edging tight to the part and it tends to stay in place better than iron on edging. Hope someone posts experience with the bits though. It would be a good choice I think. This is a tough one. I have been curious about the matched router bits as well. I work in a cabinet shop and when working with melamine with mdf or particle board core and plywood. we generally use a pvc or laminate edging. We have machines for the bulk of the work but have to glue by hand on smaller pieces. For this we use a water based contact cement. It leaves the edging tight to the part and it tends to stay in place better than iron on edging. Hope someone posts experience with the bits though. It would be a good choice I think.

]]> By: Ron in CA http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/banding-together/comment-page-1/#comment-3086 Ron in CA Fri, 29 Jan 2010 17:43:33 +0000 http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=1423#comment-3086 I've been using the router tongue and groove two bit setup. I’ve got two tables with two routers so it’s pretty easy, once dialed in, to run all the sheet stock and edging. I use to use one table/router at a time and found it best to route all the stock for one bit, change the bit and dial it in, and then run all the other stock. I also mark, with chalk or blue painter’s tape, each piece to identify the face to be up on the router. This way at least one face on the sheet stock and the edging will sit as you desired when glued up. I’m currently using the square edge tongue and groove bits but I want to start using the mitered edge tongue and groove bits so I’ll have less to virtually no edging exposed along the face. I’ve been using the router tongue and groove two bit setup. I’ve got two tables with two routers so it’s pretty easy, once dialed in, to run all the sheet stock and edging. I use to use one table/router at a time and found it best to route all the stock for one bit, change the bit and dial it in, and then run all the other stock. I also mark, with chalk or blue painter’s tape, each piece to identify the face to be up on the router. This way at least one face on the sheet stock and the edging will sit as you desired when glued up. I’m currently using the square edge tongue and groove bits but I want to start using the mitered edge tongue and groove bits so I’ll have less to virtually no edging exposed along the face.

]]> By: shaaaaf http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/banding-together/comment-page-1/#comment-3082 shaaaaf Fri, 29 Jan 2010 16:54:09 +0000 http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=1423#comment-3082 I totally agree—I wrestle with this everytime I make a plywood drawer or shelf. So far I have gone the "easy" route of cutting matching hardwood strips, then glue and tack with small brad nailer or pinner. Finish with sanding (my strips are usually cut to almost the exact width). I want to try the matched router set, though and learn to pre-edge the drawers or shelves. I also want to discipline myself to over-cut the hardwood strips and use a router edge-trimmer to get a better mate to the plywood. I'm looking foward to your article! --shaf-- I totally agree—I wrestle with this everytime I make a plywood drawer or shelf. So far I have gone the “easy” route of cutting matching hardwood strips, then glue and tack with small brad nailer or pinner. Finish with sanding (my strips are usually cut to almost the exact width).

I want to try the matched router set, though and learn to pre-edge the drawers or shelves. I also want to discipline myself to over-cut the hardwood strips and use a router edge-trimmer to get a better mate to the plywood.

I’m looking foward to your article!
–shaf–

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