This is a workbench and storage cabinet I made for my brother. It was made out of pieces of lumber left over from a cabinet shop that went out of business. It has red oak and maple doors & drawer fronts,the top is out of a luann interior door. I cut the panels off and sandwiched them over cork sheets. The case, dividers, and drawers are made out of plywood.

- Bill Roberts

We’re always looking for more projects submissions, so click here to send them in!

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used to cut good wood into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside.

DRILL PRESS: A tall machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beverage across the room, denting the freshly-painted project that you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off of bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, “Oh, crap!”

CIRCULAR SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-ups into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

LOCKING PLIERS: Generally used after regular pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool that can launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids; can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Also cuts fingers.

There you have it—life with tools. We sure can’t live without them … and sometimes not even with them!

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

This is a double length chest of draws made for a customer with a turned bowl and spoon thrown in as a gift as I do on most of my projects. The chest is made of Swedish pine to match existing bedroom furnishings.

Peter Grice, Cyprus

If you’ve got a project you’d like to share, click here to send it in.  You never know, it could be our next blog post!

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

After considering my options for a while, I settled on Minwax Polycrylic, because it would satisfy this project’s finishing conundrums pretty well. It dries quickly, has very little odor and is reasonably tough. It also looks good on light-colored woods (mine is maple).

Now, my usual approach to apply this stuff has been to use a low-nap paint pad. But, I could never figure out a way to keep those tiny, loose whiskers on the pad from getting trapped in the finish. I didn’t want to brush it on and leave brush marks, either. And, with all of that surface area, a speedy solution would be ideal.

What to do?

Well, I took a risk and tried something different this time: instead of the nappy pad, I grabbed a foam roller—the same kind you use for paint. And, just like paint, I rolled it on. However, I noticed immediately that, while the roller was working swimmingly to lay that finish down fast, it was leaving tiny bubbles behind. Would the bubbles pop out before the finish dried? I wasn’t going to wait and find out.

Once again, painting tools came to the rescue. As soon as I was done with the roller, I simply took a cheap foam paint brush and tipped off the surface, just barely stroking the edge of the foam along the varnish.

It worked like a charm. No bubbles, no little bits of whiskers and a very smooth surface in the end. I’m really pleased with it. The next time you’re applying water-based poly, give it a try. Treat it just like paint. It seems to adapt quite nicely.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

While I’m sure there are some great entries out there, the one submitted by DonW just begs to be the next viral hit (at least among woodworkers).  Make sure you check it out by clicking here.

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

I’ve used thicker edging before in a few projects, and each time I’ve wondered about those funky C-clamps made for jobs like these. They’ve got three screw jaws instead of just one—the most helpful being the third that runs through the spine of the clamp, perpendicular to the other two.

Well, last week I took the plunge and bought a half dozen to give them a try.

There are several brands of these clamps on the market. I bought Pony’s 3325 model, for around $10 apiece.

In the long run, I think it’s going to be money well spent. As you can see in the bottom photo, I didn’t use clamp pads under each of the metal jaws, so I needed to be careful about how much clamping pressure I applied. Didn’t want to dent the fragile face veneer of the plywood. But, even so, the opposing jaws held tightly enough for me to apply the tension I needed from the side of the clamp to press the edging into place. Had I used some clamp pads, I could have applied much more pressure if I needed to.

Aside from installing edging, the jaws of these three-way clamps will open to 2-1/2″, so you could also use them for reaching around the rails and stiles of a face frame to grip the cabinet parts behind, then press the frame against the carcass. I didn’t try that application, but it seems plausible enough.

Ah, that adage about never having enough clamps is true for me. Now I’ve got a few more of them on the clamp rack. But, for those unique applications, you might find these handy for your projects, too. I’m glad I’ve got them.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

Here is a baby cradle that I just finished for my new nephew (Christmas present).  Many more hours than I had planned, but well worth the effort.

- Russ Oswald

I wouldn’t be surprised if the little one grows up being drawn to a life at sea …

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

Fortunately, if you buy a new model of table saw, it’s going to come with a true riving knife that rises and falls with the blade. That’s a major step in the right direction. Hopefully, if you have an older model saw, you’re still using the splitter that helps to keep the kerf open behind the blade during a through cut.

But, maybe you are one of those woodworkers who, at some point in the past, abandoned your saw’s safety equipment. It could be that the splitter was hard to adjust accurately, or possibly it was fixed to a guard that limited your cutting capabilities or hampered your view of the cut as it happened.

I fear that there may be many of you who are sawing with nothing to protect you from the blade. You’re taking a gamble every time you make a cut.

So, for the sake of safer sawing, I’d like to let you know about a couple of products that could help prevent a horrifying kickback accident from happening. While neither of these products takes the place of a suitable guard, they should help to minimize those kerf-closing situations that occur when ripping stock or when a workpiece rotates off of the fence and binds the blade.

Bob Ross has developed BORK, a retrofit riving knife that fits several popular table saw models.

The first product is called BORK, which stands for Bolt On Riving Knife. Fellow reader Bob Ross has developed it as a retrofit riving knife for certain common table saws. It takes the place of a standard splitter and mounts to the saw’s arbor bracket with an adjustable clamp. The BORK is fully adjustable, and it remains a consistent distance behind the blade, regardless of blade height. Bob says that currently, his BORK will fit the following cabinet saws: Grizzly 1023, Delta Unisaw and the JET JTAS Series. You can also mount the BORK on Craftsman, Steel City and JET hybrid saws, plus some Delta contractor’s saws. It retails for $125.

Micro Jig's SteelPRO dual splitter will fit any table saw that can take a zero-clearance throatplate.

Micro Jig offers several retrofit MJ Splitter products that fit into a standard zero-clearance throatplate you make yourself. A new version of this product—called the SteelPRO—has a stainless steel core with a polycarbonate shell. It’s actually a dual-style splitter. One splitter works like a featherboard to press the “keeper” workpiece against the rip fence, and a second splitter offset slightly behind the first holds the offcut away from the blade. You can buy SteelPRO versions for either full- or thin-kerf blades for around $30. Several major woodworking retailers offer SteelPRO.

There really is no compromise for safety, folks. Our reaction time isn’t fast enough to beat a table saw, and we can’t out-think every potential calamity. So, whether you blow the dust off of that guard/splitter and put it back on your saw, upgrade to a product like one of these mentioned here or invest in a new saw with improved safety features, let’s make 2010 a safer year at the table saw.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

1.  Hickory
2.  Zebrawood
3.  Walnut Sapwood

Handcrafted by Dave and Kathy Dye
“Retired and recommending it”

But that’s just my opinion; make sure to leave some feedback in the Comments section!

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

Newsy Tools: Far be it from us to let you down on the tool front! In this issue, A.J. Hamler rounds up a gaggle of countersink bits and takes a closer look at their particulars. Let’s just say there are a lot of options for sinking screws these days. Betty Scarpino will turn your attention to vacuum chucks in our Woodturning Department and show you how a little suction can get you through some tough scrapes. Speaking of scraping, I’ll introduce you to the new and growing class of multi-tools, which can scrape, cut, sand, grind and practically finish those shop and DIY projects. Very handy and tempting little machines.

New Projects: Frank Grant rolls up his sleeves and takes a stack of white oak to task, by building a handsome Arts & Crafts-inspired Blanket Chest. It’s bound to be a family keepsake. Ralph Bagnall gives his router a whole new workout by “turning” interchangeable pasta sleeves for a custom Rolling Pin. Just wait until you see the jig he builds to get that project done! Rob Johnstone has been busy too—this time sprucing up a built-in cabinet with fresh veneer, updated doors and glass and some smart new hardware in this issue’s “Woodworking for Your Home” offering.

So Much More: “Finishing Thoughts” will provide you with a quick, easy and convincing Stickley Finish for that new Blanket Chest you’ll want to build…and this recipe won’t make you pull on a respirator to apply it. Ian Kirby continues our 2010 Skill Builder series in both the print issue and online with a discussion of the Necessary Workbench. Sandor Nagyszalanczy focuses on those little—but important—details in his article, “Revealing the Reveals.” And, as always, we’ll bring you the latest feedback in Letters, new product news in “What’s In Store” and interesting tidbits from other workshops in Shop Talk. Plus, much more.

So, until those tulips start poking back up, stay warm and keep reading! We think this issue should help stir those creative vernal urges.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

I bet you’re probably in the same boat. We woodworkers spend a lot of time thinking about form, function, good technique, the right material choices, durability, safety and so forth. Most projects have an intended and practical purpose. And, I think those are all good aims. Materials are expensive, and shop time is often pretty short. Not to mention the fact that if you actually make your living—or even part of it—from the furniture or cabinetry you build, there’s not a lot of room for funny business. You follow your plans, turn out good work and move on to the next challenge. Get ‘er done.

That’s why some lighthearted woodworking is a really nice change of pace to see now and again. Take, for instance, this little YouTube gem a friend of mine sent me recently:

http://laughingsquid.com/the-most-useless-machine-ever/

“The Most Useless Machine.” Gotta love that! Wouldn’t this little project be a kick to give to a kid? Heck, I’d be amused having it sit on my desk, too. Pure tomfoolery, and built to be nothing more than that.

What sorts of whimsical, silly or even completely “useless” projects do you like to build? How far does your funny bone extend into the shop? Drop us a comment and tell us about them. It might be nice to take a break from the serious projects now and then to build something purely for the laughs it brings.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

Cyanoacrylate  (sigh-an-no-ack-rill-ate)
When cyanoacrylates first burst onto the scene with distinctive trade names like Crazy Glue, Super Glue and Hot Stuff, they brought unimagined speed to the field of adhesives. Cyanoacrylate (or CA in shorthand) is the fastest setting of all adhesives. A variety of formulations exist from ultra-thin to thick gels, and with setting times that vary from just one or two seconds to over a minute. They are all clear, waterproof, and require no clamping, so you can simply hold parts in place until the glue sets. CA is triggered by either moisture or alkalines, but once it starts to cure it continues on its own, making it a true one part self-crosslinking adhesive.

Characteristics
Cyanoacrylate is instant adhesive, so you have little or no time to align parts. Manufacturers offer very watery versions, which are too thin to be gap filling and only work on perfectly mated parts, or gap filling thick versions which usually dry slower and work better on wood. CA will bond a variety of materials including glass, ceramics, plastic, abalone, etc., and special versions are offered to deal with oily woods and bonding metals to wood. It can be used at almost any temperature both indoors and out. In all cases, CA forms a permanent waterproof bond, but you can reverse it with high heat (above 350 degrees F) or a special debonder solvent.

Use For:

• Fast setting or where clamping is impossible
• Repairs (it will stick to old glue)
• Glue size to seal end grain before staining
• Crack or gouge filler when added to sawdust
• Mounting green or dry blocks for turning
• Finish on green or dry wood
• Repairing chips in high tech finishes
• Wood sealer to eliminate pinholes, and it case hardens

Avoid:

• Complicated assemblies requiring long open time
• Jobs where glue cost is an issue (it’s expensive)

Oddball Uses
Cyanoacrylate has been used for fingerprint analysis, solidifying fragile bones during archeological digs, repairing the crushed shell of a live tortoise, sealing petrified wood for lapidary, repairing a crumbling smokestack, assembling satellites, and gluing live bait to fish hooks.

Using the Adhesive
Start with a clean, dry surface. Apply CA to one side of the joint, then quickly press the parts together and hold them until the glue sets, usually in less than a minute. Don’t spread out the drop or bead, but instead let it squash when you join the parts. The more CA is spread out, the faster it will cure, and it won’t cure in a large puddle.

Use the smallest amount you need. Normally, one drop covers one square inch, but you’ll need more on porous surfaces including most woods. Excess glue does not add more strength. For very absorbent wood or open grain, use one of the thick formulations. CA cures slower on acidic woods like mahogany and oak, but you can use accelerator to overcome that. (see below – About Accelerator) .

To avoid clogging the tip, don’t touch it to the work or any surface, and don’t poke pins or nails into the opening either. If it does clog, unscrew the cap and remove the plug by pushing it through, or by soaking the cap in debonder. The debonding solvent is nitromethane, known to racing buffs as funny car fuel. Acetone will work in a pinch, but it works VERY slowly. It is a good idea to always have a bottle of debonder on hand, especially since you are likely to glue yourself to something at some point. Trust me, it’s inevitable.

Cyanoacrylate will stick to finish, but applying paste wax will block the glue. On the other hand, you can glue to a finished surface, something few adhesives will do. It will stick to old glue, so it’s ideal for repair work. CA is also frequently used to fill small chips in lacquer, polyurethane, and polyester finishes. Turners and luthiers fill cracks and small voids in raw wood by filling them with sanding dust, then dropping CA into the powder to form a solid plug. Thin versions will seep into even the smallest of fractures. Because it is moisture activated, it will work on wet wood, green wood, and pressure treated wood. Some folks use it as a finish or as a sealer under other finishes. Some turners alternate wet-on-wet coats of CA and boiled linseed oil to create an instant curing, extra hard oil finish.

About Accelerator
It seems odd that the fastest of all glues would need an accelerator, but it actually does more than just speed up the cure. You’ll get a better bond on oily or high acid content woods if you spray or wipe accelerator on one side of the joint before putting glue on the other. You can also speed up a bond by spraying accelerator on it after the parts are together. There are two common types of accelerators. When you use those that say “flammable” on the container, wait 60 seconds after you apply it before you join the parts, or before you spray accelerator onto a glued surface. Spraying these accelerators too soon can turn the glue white. For non-flammable accelerators, there is no waiting time needed. Wiping one side of the joint with water, alcohol, or baking soda also speeds the cure, but results in a substantially weaker glue bond and can also turn the glue white.

Warnings
It’s a good idea to wear disposable gloves and goggles to keep the glue off your hands and out of your eyes. CA is a bit like cutting onions in that the fumes are irritating to your eyes and lungs, but not particularly harmful. Contrary to internet rumor, CA is not carcinogenic and it does not contain cyanide. However, it is flammable. It will stick to skin, so be careful not to glue yourself to objects or you might end up as the topic of the next American Pie movie.

Storage and Shelf Life
How long CA lasts is affected by the size of the container. Smaller amounts have a shorter shelf life than larger ones. A 2 oz bottle will last at least a year at room temperature. Do not refrigerate opened containers as that can clog the tip and make the glue harden in the container. You can double the shelf life by freezing, but only unopened bottles. Let them warm to room temperature before you open them and don’t refreeze them.

Other Important Information

• Some formulations are oily and/or hard to adhere woods
• Mixed materials – yes
• Some (NOT all) can be used for gap filling
• No clamping required
• Open time: a few seconds
• Cure time: under a minute
• Waterproof
• Submersible
• Apply to one side
• Neither expands nor contracts while curing
• Emits irritating and/or dangerous vapors

The Alternative Energy blog offered an option that should appeal to our tight-fisted nature and could reduce those huge piles of scrap:

Wood powered cars.

I am not making this up. Wood powered cars apparently made their first appearance in Europe during WWII, but don’t take my word for it: click here to read for yourself!

Label your blades and chippers, then keep track of combinations that you use often on cards you keep in your dado blade case.

Well, this week I’ll be pulling out my dado blade and cutting some shelf dadoes for a big case goods project that will run in our June 2010 issue. Of course I’ll want to set it up accurately to cut nice, tight dadoes on my undersized plywood. It’s a  job that reminds me of a post I wrote last September. In case you didn’t see it then, I’d like to offer up a couple of tricks to make the set-up process faster and easier. They’ve come in awful handy for me.

The first dadoing trick is mine: When I find an arrangement of chippers and shims that fits a given dado width really well, I label the parts with a permanent marker and record the combination on cards I keep right in my dado blade case. I use alphabet letters on the chippers and I number the shims. That way, I don’t have to make a bunch of test cuts to find that really sweet 3/4-in. width I want; the “recipe” is right on my card. It’s also really slick for quick box-joint set-ups.

The second whizbang trick comes courtesy of Marc Spagnuolo, a.k.a. the Wood Whisperer. Marc was kind enough to let me share this trick with you here on our blog. Marc stacks his outer blades and chippers together, laying them down next to the workpiece he plans to fit in the dado. He shims the stack as needed until the teeth on top of the stack are flush with the top edge of the workpiece. No need for a measuring device of any kind. A finger swipe across the teeth and workpiece will tell you if you’re on the money:

Stack your blades and shims next to the workpiece you intend to fit in the dado. Your finger will tell you when the combination matches the workpiece thickness.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/setting-up-a-dado-blade-whisper-mini/

Of course, nobody’s perfect. You may still need to make a test cut now and then to verify the setting. But with these two tricks you’ll make fewer test cuts than you used to and get down to the business of dadoing much faster. What’s not to like about that?

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

With the exception of Baltic birch and its various likenesses, where the plys are generally uniform and pretty enough to show off, we don’t want to see those “bad” plys on most projects. Particleboard edges are just as much a faux pas to leave bare. You can get away with it on a shop project, but not on a finished cabinet. At least MDF edges, which are generally left au naturel, kind of blend into their surroundings unnoticed.

So, that begs the reason for this post. Generally, I hide the edges of sheet goods just like you do. I’ve used iron-on edge tape, but if I’m going to all the effort to hide plys, I usually want something more durable. So, solid-wood edging is my deal. I’ve used thicker strips reinforced with biscuits. Sometimes I’ll switch to tongue-and-groove joints when applying wider shelf edging. It adds structure and is self-aligning. And, of course, I’ve applied thinner strips of hardwood with brad nails and glue.

In fact, right now I’m designing a plywood project for our next print issue. So, I’m faced with lots of “dirty” edges again and options for how to hide it.

Here’s the question for you: how do you treat plywood edges? Has anyone experimented with the paired router bit sets for making interlocking edging? How well do they work? Are there any pitfalls to them? If you use edge tape, what’s the best kind to go with? Do you have other tricks for applying edging quickly and easily?

Please share your banding methods and favorite approach. I’d really like to hear about it—and I’m sure others would, too.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

I always wanted a wood saw so I made one.

- Darryl Sackmann; Montrose, Colorado

I’m a little curious how it would handle cutting some rock-hard maple…

If you’ve got projects you’d like to share, click here to send them in.

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

PS – You’ll see a little less activity on our main blog this week because we’ll be at the International Builder’s Show in Las Vegas.  Click here to follow our coverage of the show!

I’ve been wanting to pick a “Top Ten” list, but between the captions posted to our Facebook page and here on the blog, there are too many good ones for just ten fingers. (And despite all those cabinet saws, I still have ten to count with.) So, with Matt Becker’s help—he’s got all ten digits, too—we’ve picked 20 of the funniest ones. If yours didn’t make the cut (yeah, couldn’t help that one), it’s nothing personal. These just made us laugh out loud…but there were plenty of chuckles and smiles for the rest.

See if you agree:

• Sniffing the thinners will usually leave you seeing double or even triple…in this case, there was more than one bottle open… [Patrick]

• Got a handyman infestation? Set any one of these fine traps and he won’t be able to resist the temptation. [Anton]

• Now where did I put that universal blade changing wrench? [woodgeek]

• Kirk to Engineering: the transporter is stuck on “Copy” again [Ken]

• Now this…is a real heavy metal group. [Bob Shubert]

• And then I woke up and realized it was just a dream. [Gary Storme]

• Cabinet saws of the world, UNITE! [Josef Cook]

• Where do good woodworkers go when they die? [Carol Oster]

• And that’s how, with a few minor adjustments, you can turn a regular cabinet saw into seven cabinet saws. [Adam]

• On a dare, Chris Marshall attempted to build realistic wooden replicas of cabinet saws in his workshop. Can you guess which one is the real saw? [Laura]

• The saws huddled together, trying to choose a leader… [William Babb]

• Tired of making blade changes, Joe equips his shop with a saw for each application. [Karl]

• First saw takes it down to 6 inches, next one to 5, then 4…, and eventually, A TOOTHPICK! [Chet Kloss]

• OK sir, can you pick out the saw that cut your finger out of the lineup? Take your time, they can’t see you. [Lamar]

• Rip,rip,rip,rip,rip,rip,crosscut. [Philip "Less Digits" Mielke]  Yikes, “Less Digits,” this would NOT be the shop for you!

• Apparently, he misunderstood the concept of “gang ripping.” [Chris@flairwoodworks]

• What could I do? They were ALL on sale! [Patricia Tuttle]

• My name is Dan, and I’m a Saw-aholic. [Dan Valleskey]

• This takes resawing to a whole new level. [Jim Daniels]

• Oh my, I guess I shouldn’t have kept hitting enter when I submitted my order. [Gary D. Jones]

Nice job, all.

Catch you in the shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor

I made a Wooden Memory Quilt for my sister-in-law for Christmas. Each square has a special meaning.

Intarsia, segmentation, inlay, and fretwork make up the squares.  I used patterns designed by others for the squares  to design my own quilt.

The quilt measures 3’ x 4’. I used a protective gel varnish.

I have been working with wood for about 3 years and love it. A new band saw and router this year for Christmas; can’t wait to see what comes out of the woodshed next.

- Angie Gryder Gregg; Blowing Rock, NC

Have you got projects you’d like to see on our site?  Click here to send them in!

Matt Becker
Content Coordinator

Stuffed shop or situation comedy? Looks like both to you.

Who knew that a bunch of shop rats could be so darn funny?

Your response to Matt Becker’s request for Cabinet Saw Captions has been OFF THE CHARTS! And we couldn’t be happier about it. The numbers keep clicking higher as your rapier wit unleashes itself. Do you think we can top 150 captions before the comedy runs cold?

I’ve been busy working on a big “Today’s Shop” article over the past couple days for our next print issue. So, I haven’t been checking the blog much. You’d think a guy would notice that his ears are in flames with all of the ribbing I’ve been getting about this goofy photo!

Oh, and for those of you who might wonder if my wife follows these blogs…she does. (My biggest fan, I should add.) So, don’t go telling my deep, dark shop secrets to cyberspace, people. She watches those Visa bills for tool purchases like a hawk!

I’m loving the idea of having a cabinet saw for every cutting operation. Heck, how about every blade setting, too? Or, maybe just a different saw for every day of the week. I’ve heard that sort of thing happens with shoes…this is the woodworker’s version.

One by one, away they go.

Anyhow, just thought all of you comedians should know that, well, my saw nirvana is ending. One by one, these cabinet saws are heading back to their proper owners. And that’s as it should be. But, maybe two consenting saws, if left in a candlelit shop, could make a few more again. Who knows?

Keep those captions coming in. It’s great stuff!

Catch you in your ONE SAW shop,

Chris Marshall, Field Editor