Comments on: Rollin, Rollin, Rollin…

By: Chris Marshall

Chris Marshall — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 14:56:16 +0000

Jerry,

Here’s a solution for you that Michael Dresdner has recommended before for similar odor problems: Instead of sanding the drawers down, topcoat the poly with shellac instead. There will be no adhesion problems between the two finishes, and you don’t have to rough the poly up first. Shellac works well to seal in odors of any kind. This should correct that stinky polyurethane problem for you. Zinsser SealCoat is the way to go here, because it’s clear and ready to apply straight from the can. Good luck!

Chris

By: Jerry Glatt

Jerry Glatt — Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:20:54 +0000

Chris
Over a year ago I built a large chest of drawers that the six drawers made from 1\2″ baltic birch were sealed inside and out with Minwax oil base Poly. As of today, because of oder transfer to the clothing the chest is unuseable.

Since than the drawers have been removed and let to air out for several months. Thay still are unuseable.

What is the solution? Asking for your input.

My last thought is to sand the drawers and reseal them with water base poly.

Thanks

By: Bruce Loder

Bruce Loder — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:23:42 +0000

I’ve used this finish more and more over the years. I really like it, for the most part. But I did use my HVLP sprayer once and it dried very “rough”. Normally I use a foam brush, and have also used the roller. I can see where using the roller, then going over it with the foam brush would help.

By: Bill Stevenson

Bill Stevenson — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 17:04:38 +0000

I used a Porter Cable HVLP that I have had for several years and I really like it. The tips about the angle of the light were spot on. I had to work outside and the temp did not get warm enough until just after lunch. (bright overhead light) I have a very small work shop and the bookcase had to be assembled and finished outdoors. 39” wide x 48″ high x 12″ deep, finished size. I really learned a lot as this was the largest project to date.

Chris thank you for the nice reply

By: Chris Marshall

Chris Marshall — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:37:59 +0000

Bill,

Ff the sun was high overhead, that may have been the trouble for you. I really find it best to have a raking light (low and shining across the surface) near the bench so the wet areas and overall surface quality are easy to see. Hard overhead lighting makes that really difficult. But, you should be set with three coats, one way or the other.

Did you use an HVLP gun to spray it on, or did you buy it in the aerosol can? I’ve tried the aerosol before and wasn’t real pleased with the results. The surface quality was really inconsistent, unlike aerosol lacquer. I’ve gotten nice results from that before.

By: Bill Stevenson

Bill Stevenson — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:44:01 +0000

I just sprayed a Bookcase outside in the sunshine with the Polycrylic. It was very hard to see how well the coverage was. Three applications and sanding and I was still not 100% sure. I think I will try your method with the next project. The spraying was quick and easy water clean-up. Any other tips we could use?

By: Chris Marshall

Chris Marshall — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 11:09:40 +0000

Jerry, that foam brush really did work wonders. No streaks! This was a quick way to get a lot of finish down well.

By: Jerry Layne

Jerry Layne — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 19:32:42 +0000

This technique has been used by boaters for years. It is called “rolling and tipping”. We use it for certain finishes where you would normally spray on the finish for the best result, but can’t for various reasons. I have used it on 2 boats that I have built with great results. I used a short napped roller and a good badger hair brush, but for the polycrylic I bet the foam does work great.

By: Chris Marshall

Chris Marshall — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 15:22:38 +0000

Pablo: I dampened the edge of the foam brush with finish. Didn’t soak it, but had it wet enough to help slide over the surface. In some cases, there was enough excess finish left from the roller to wet the brush automatically. In others, I dipped the brush back in the finish tray, pressed out the excess and then applied it to the workpiece. Thanks for asking that question—it’s a helpful clarification.

By: Pablo

Pablo — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 15:12:43 +0000

Caveat: I’m somewhat a newbie at finishing (and lots of other ww aspects!). Is the cheap foam brush dry? Or do you dip it first?

By: Bob Ross

Bob Ross — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 12:10:08 +0000

Bonk, I coulda had a V8. I’ve applied wb poly on several projects using a foam brush. It never occured to me to use a roller for the larger surfaces. Great tip.