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	<title>Comments on: What Are Your Favorite Finishes?</title>
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	<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/</link>
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		<title>By: DKO</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-31225</link>
		<dc:creator>DKO</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Nov 2010 14:07:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-31225</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been using a product call Bristol Finish. It&#039;s a marine grade wood coating and they have a 2 part urathane that looks just like varnish.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have been using a product call Bristol Finish. It&#8217;s a marine grade wood coating and they have a 2 part urathane that looks just like varnish.</p>
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		<title>By: cindersfella</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-27291</link>
		<dc:creator>cindersfella</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Oct 2010 03:49:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-27291</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I use  Nitrocellulose Based  Spray Finishes And Sanding Sealer because it dries Quick ( 10 Min Re coat time) and I  have  controlled finish 
I Get From A high gloss to a flat and the finish is perfect. I have tried two pack finishes and they take forever to dry and it is less controllable,]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use  Nitrocellulose Based  Spray Finishes And Sanding Sealer because it dries Quick ( 10 Min Re coat time) and I  have  controlled finish<br />
I Get From A high gloss to a flat and the finish is perfect. I have tried two pack finishes and they take forever to dry and it is less controllable,</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: las JonesDoug</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-27111</link>
		<dc:creator>las JonesDoug</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Oct 2010 02:22:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-27111</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My turnings get Myland&#039;s sanding sealer and then their friction finish. All my flat work I reach for Waterlox Original. It never fails me, adds warmth to the project and rubs out beautifully.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My turnings get Myland&#8217;s sanding sealer and then their friction finish. All my flat work I reach for Waterlox Original. It never fails me, adds warmth to the project and rubs out beautifully.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Will Merryman</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-22358</link>
		<dc:creator>Will Merryman</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Sep 2010 01:55:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-22358</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have started using poly whey from Vermont Natural coatings. Current job for chemical sensitive client  requires products of this nature. Harder than petro poly, each coat dries in 2 hrs. Powders on sanding no loading of paper and can be buffed out if higher blemish free gloss is desired. I liked it so much I used their floor finish in a room in my house. The stuff is rock hard. Made in Vermont from waste product of cheese making.Check it out.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have started using poly whey from Vermont Natural coatings. Current job for chemical sensitive client  requires products of this nature. Harder than petro poly, each coat dries in 2 hrs. Powders on sanding no loading of paper and can be buffed out if higher blemish free gloss is desired. I liked it so much I used their floor finish in a room in my house. The stuff is rock hard. Made in Vermont from waste product of cheese making.Check it out.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Dick Hanna</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-21872</link>
		<dc:creator>Dick Hanna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Sep 2010 18:32:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-21872</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I am just finishing a Murphy Bed which I have made with oak veneered plywood and solid oak.  I used a pre-stain and stain followed by what I have come to like very much - a wipe-on poly (clear satin).  I don&#039;t have problems getting an ultra smooth surface and on a number of projects I have varied from 2 to 7 coats.  I used to use a brushed poly but one sometimes has runs, sags, bubbles, brush hairs, etc to deal with and this has disappeared with the wipe-on..  I also like that one can put another coat on after 2-3 hours.  I usually do the next coat after 2 hours which means I can sometimes get 4 coats in a day before I give up.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am just finishing a Murphy Bed which I have made with oak veneered plywood and solid oak.  I used a pre-stain and stain followed by what I have come to like very much &#8211; a wipe-on poly (clear satin).  I don&#8217;t have problems getting an ultra smooth surface and on a number of projects I have varied from 2 to 7 coats.  I used to use a brushed poly but one sometimes has runs, sags, bubbles, brush hairs, etc to deal with and this has disappeared with the wipe-on..  I also like that one can put another coat on after 2-3 hours.  I usually do the next coat after 2 hours which means I can sometimes get 4 coats in a day before I give up.</p>
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		<title>By: Mike@wood routers</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-21434</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike@wood routers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Sep 2010 16:39:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-21434</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Call me old fashioned but I still like to used water based poly for my projects.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Call me old fashioned but I still like to used water based poly for my projects.</p>
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		<title>By: Randy Goodhew</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-21152</link>
		<dc:creator>Randy Goodhew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Sep 2010 18:15:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-21152</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My favorite finish reflects my methods of work. I like the intimacy of working close to the wood. I seek to accentuate the natural qualities of the wood that I am working. For me, materials selection is the bigger part of creating. Therefore, I most often use a hand-rubbed oil and varnish blend, then rub and rub and rub some more. Like a thoroughbred race horse after a gallant run (I&#039;m from Kentucky), my wood gets a  meaningful massage as a well deserved finish.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My favorite finish reflects my methods of work. I like the intimacy of working close to the wood. I seek to accentuate the natural qualities of the wood that I am working. For me, materials selection is the bigger part of creating. Therefore, I most often use a hand-rubbed oil and varnish blend, then rub and rub and rub some more. Like a thoroughbred race horse after a gallant run (I&#8217;m from Kentucky), my wood gets a  meaningful massage as a well deserved finish.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Darryl Mayer</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-21150</link>
		<dc:creator>Darryl Mayer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:57:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-21150</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I used to use lacquer now I&#039;ve switched to conversion varnish. It doesn&#039;t smell as bad and dries faster and I can use fewer coats for a durable finish]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I used to use lacquer now I&#8217;ve switched to conversion varnish. It doesn&#8217;t smell as bad and dries faster and I can use fewer coats for a durable finish</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Ken Schultze</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/index.php/what-are-your-favorite-finishes/comment-page-1/#comment-21149</link>
		<dc:creator>Ken Schultze</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Sep 2010 17:38:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodworkersjournal.com/woodworking_blog/?p=2378#comment-21149</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My favorite is hand rubbed oil finish &quot;Tried and True&quot; but its very time consuming. I was introduced to this method from my Jedi master Mark Koons, www.MarKKoons.com. I will use this method if I am making something that does not get much surface abuse. For things like coffee tables I use linseed oil or tung oil to bring out the beauty of the wood and have been really happy using General brand oil poly applied with a cloth. It seems to dry very fast, at least here in Wyoming which is a very dry climate. I make sure I apply three very light coats that gives me an almost sprayed look result. I am still learning about different approaches from my friend Mark. He also was friends with James Krenov and I am trying to stay true to the approach of working close to the wood which I feel is a great path to the meaning of our craft.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My favorite is hand rubbed oil finish &#8220;Tried and True&#8221; but its very time consuming. I was introduced to this method from my Jedi master Mark Koons, <a href="http://www.MarKKoons.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.MarKKoons.com</a>. I will use this method if I am making something that does not get much surface abuse. For things like coffee tables I use linseed oil or tung oil to bring out the beauty of the wood and have been really happy using General brand oil poly applied with a cloth. It seems to dry very fast, at least here in Wyoming which is a very dry climate. I make sure I apply three very light coats that gives me an almost sprayed look result. I am still learning about different approaches from my friend Mark. He also was friends with James Krenov and I am trying to stay true to the approach of working close to the wood which I feel is a great path to the meaning of our craft.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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