Web Surfer's Review

Wood (or Not) and Fumes

Which Wood?: from Sawmill Creek "I can't decide on a long-lasting outdoor wood species for a patio set. I'm trying to build an outdoor patio set with benches, chairs and a long table. I am considering white oak, but I read white oak splits after time. How is ash?  Teak is too expensive, and I found Western cedar to be the same high price range." – Sam There were plenty of opinions. – Editor "Cypress is renowned for outdoor wood. Teak is a good one. Ipe is durable but very hard. Cedar is great but is soft and easily dinged." – Chris "White oak will probably be the most rot-resistant out of the three you mentioned. Osage orange or locust would be what I would call our native equivalent to teak here in the Midwest. I would venture to bet that it will actually outlast teak, but I can't compare because I have never seen a teak fence post to compare it to. Around here, rough-cut cedar is pretty inexpensive, but as Chris said, is not a hardwood. If you're in the South, I understand that cypress is the wood of choice, but I'm not in the South, so I don't find it common around here." – Homer "I would vote for Western cedar for the furniture. White oak, though long-lasting outdoors, will weigh a ton. Ipe will weigh more than oak. Ash is not normally associated with outdoor furniture and is not as rot-resistant as, say, cherry or walnut when used outdoors." – Lee "Cypress would be my choice, but I'm from the South, and that was not one of your choices. White oak would be nice but it will be a little heavy." – Von "How about Port Orford cedar? I've used it to make picket fences and gates. Nice to work with." – Jay "I made an outdoor shower out of Port Orford cedar, and it's held up pretty well. That is one of the nicest smelling woods I have ever cut. Seems a bit stronger than Western red cedar, but I'm not sure. Has a cool 'glow' when it's new that turns a dull silver in my area with age. Not at all cheap here on the East Coast. I'd avoid ash; not too rot-resistant unless you bury it in an epoxy shell. Design-wise, cedar or redwood furniture always has that chunky country picnic table look because it's not very strong, so you need to use thicker stock to make any significant span. I like hard woods if you're going for a more elegant English garden look. Otherwise, cedar is fine. White oak or mahogany would be my primary choices. White oak does tend to check a bit at the ends, but sealing with a good penetrating sealer should minimize this." – Peter "I'd go with the cedar and finish it with spar urethane. Cypress may be a bit harder, but you didn't mention it originally. Ash is bad for outdoors. It isn't very rot-resistant, and the bugs just love it." – Jeremy Then came a truly radical suggestion. – Editor "This may be sacrilege, but has anyone built any outdoor furniture from the Trex® or similar product? I'm considering some Adirondacks. It is heavy enough to stay put and easy to machine. Please don't excommunicate me, or withdraw my SMC privileges if this thought is too offensive." – John "I haven't built furniture from Trex, but I did use Kleer™ polyurethane boards extensively on my porch remodel. It mills like pine but lasts like plastic. It's dead stable on short lengths and holds paint well. I hate working it because it smells like skunk and its positive charge causes it to stick to everything, including the inside of the DC system, and the farm where I drop my shavings doesn't want any plastic in the mix. Kleer isn't structural like Trex, but I appreciate the longevity factor. I also appreciate the unique feeling of hardwood warmed gently by the sun on the arms of an Adirondack chair. I'd be curious if a Trex chair would have that unique tactile quality of real wood, and if not, would you be willing to trade that feeling for longevity and ease of maintenance?" – Peter Fumes: from WoodCentral This question was posted on a woodworking web site as OT, or off topic. Even though it talks about fumes from cleaning agents, the good information that other readers offered is actually very valuable to us woodworkers as well. – Editor "My wife uses a consumer level cleaner to clean the shower. The fumes are very irritating to her nose and lungs. All windows are open and the exhaust fan is running, to no avail. The active ingredients are 'organic acids, surfactants and fragrance. Contains no phosphorous.' I am looking for an effective mask or respirator which will filter out the fumes. Any suggestions?" – Rich Several thought the first line of information should be the manufacturer. – Editor "The manufacturer should be able to steer you to proper protective equipment, if they have acknowledged the need for it. But, I'd tend to be proactive and rig up an exhaust fan or two, blowing out the windows." – Ellis "The MSDS will tell you what protection is required. Contact the supplier and ask for a copy of their Material Safety Data Sheet. They are required to give you a copy. Unless the product label specifically advises a respirator, the fumes are probably not dangerous. But, they can be irritating." – Howard Others proffered more specific advice. – Editor "You need an air-purifying respirator with an organic vapor acid gas cartridge; something along the lines of a 3M series 6000 or series 7000 gas mask and the appropriate cartridge. If you go with the half-mask version, then you'll also need chemical goggles." – Curly "Just because it is sold retail doesn't mean it can't hurt you without proper safety equipment. In this case, use an organic vapor respirator and elbow-length gloves." – Dave Then there was the obvious, something almost always suggested when the discussion involves finish solvents instead of cleaners. – Editor "Find a different cleaner." – Mark