eZine Feedback Followup

eZine Feedback Followup

Winter Woes, Summer Sorrows

“Reading Rob Johnstone’s dreams of summer reminded me of a summer headache. I keep my ‘G’, ‘C’ and quick-release cramps (clamps?) cramped onto the wooden rafters of my shed. Over here in England, winters are wet and wood swells. Spring passes and summer arrives. The moisture content of the rafters decreases, the rafters contract; you get the idea. If you are not careful, you get a headache when they fall!” – Dave Brock, Iver Heath United Kingdom.

Band Saw Tires

A question about replacing and gluing band saw tires in the last issue inspired several readers to offer their experiences. – Editor

“After a number of attempts, I was able to install the tires by heating the tire with a hairdryer. After a few minutes I was able to stretch the tire to fit around the hub. When the tire cooled it returned to its original size but now firmly around the hub.” – Marty Kovacs

“Putting them in warm water allows them to stretch, making them easier to slip on.” – Claire Leusink

While that advice is fine for urethane tires, it is not recommended for rubber ones. To clarify things, I contacted Carter Products, one of the leading makers of replacement tires, for some expert advice. “Depending on the size of the saw,” they explained, “some rubber tires need an adhesive, while others do not. Usually it is the larger size band saws that need them. We offer both a rubber and gasket adhesive, and a two-part epoxy, and include a set of instructions on how to change a band saw tire with each order. We don’t recommend heating rubber tires, nor using water or soap, which could impede the adhesion. Rubber tires are typically made about 15% undersized to hold on, and brute force is the best bet. However, for urethane, which will not need adhesive, we recommend hot soapy water. They are closer to size, because they don’t stretch as easily as rubber, so the heat and soap is helpful and appropriate.” To make things even easier for us, Carter has helpfully posted the instructions for changing both rubber and urethane tires right on their web site. You can find them for urethane tires and for rubber tires. For more on Carter Products, check out the Tool Maker Insider segment in this issue. – Editor

Shelf Pin Hole Jig

In our QandA segment, our experts responded to a reader who asked how to build a cheap shelf pin hole jig, and several of you chimed in suggesting pegboard. – Editor

“The jig I use was created using standard pegboard and a self-center drill bit. It was quick to construct, is predrilled, has standard increments, and is cheap to replace if damaged.” – Ryan Monson

“A piece of 1/4″ pegboard will work just fine. Just cut it to fit and to place the holes where you want them and clamp it to your board.” – Andy Cotterman

“A simple but effective shelf pin jig is a piece of pegboard. The holes are evenly spaced. Just line up a straight side on the board and drill away.” – Bill Nelson

Hey, Where’s My Question?

“I have sent questions only to never see my questions answered by you in this newsletter.” – Glynn Fontenot

“I have written to you folks several times but got no answer.” – Evan W Thompson III

That’s not surprising. Although we would love to answer them all, space and time limits allow us to answer only four questions per issue, though we get more than thirty each issue. We try to choose those questions that are most common and will appeal to and help the greatest number of our readers. There are other venues for expert answers, however. One such venue is www.woodanswers.com, an online service which answers all finishing questions that come in on a daily basis, and a few general woodworking questions as well. That’s over two thousand questions per year. Another option is to post your question on one of the woodworking bulletin boards, such as www.woodcentral.com. There, you take your chances; you will get many answers, some of which are outstanding and accurate, and some less so. It will be up to you to sort out which advice you choose to follow. – Editor


After some commentary about the safety of radial arm saws in an earlier issue, this question came in. – Editor

“Do you know of any books out that give hints on use of the radial arm saw? There are many on table saws, but I cannot find any on radial arm saws.” – Grizzly Gausman

Chris Marshall’s article on radial arm saws, which will appear in the March/April print edition of Woodworker’s Journal magazine, is mostly a tool review but also contains some basics about using the RAS. – Editor


“I see where this wood treatment is a great step forward and I applaud it. I am wondering how one could protect the ends of cut 2×4’s as I understand this is a coating to the outside of the 2×4’s.” – R E Johnson Sr

“I found your article on TimberSIL very fascinating. I have used water glass for various things, but never thought about it being used on wood. Is the wood soaked in it, or is the water glass painted on?” – Eva Bailey

“What happens when you cut the board? Is the cut surface still protected?” – Giovanni Mastrangelo, M.D.

As you can see, several readers assumed that the TimberSIL process is only a surface finish. It’s not. The wood is fully impregnated via a patented process developed by Karen Slimak. – Editor

Automatic Dust Gates

“Another choice for a dust gate that is fully automated is the System 1 Dust Control from Rockler.

I use it in my shop and find it very helpful. When I turn on my Unisaw, the dust collector outside fires up and the dust gate on the back of the saw automatically opens up. When I shut off the saw, the system continues to run for a few moments, clearing out the lines, then closes the gate and shuts down. It’s cheaper than the fancier system you mentioned, and adequate for a small shop.” – Eric Bergh

Typo Corner Comments

We posed a tongue-in-cheek rhetorical question in our typo segment when a writer talked about a 180 degree bend in wood. Quite a few readers took us at our word and wrote in this description. – Editor

“A 180 deg turn is a U-turn so a 180 deg bend is a u-bend.” – Dwight Casteel

“I think a 180 degree bend is a U shape.” – Bill Hardin

“Isn’t a 180 bend like a U-turn?” – Don Mullings

“In metalworking we often bend the edges of sheet metal back on itself, a process called ‘hemming’; this involves bending the metal 180 degrees back on itself. Think of a sideways ‘U’ without any space in the middle. As to how a 180 degree bend is used on a shelf, well, I am as baffled as you.” – Mike Holden

Typo Corner

And speaking of the typo corner, here is the latest entry in this well-loved feature. – Editor

“This is my first endeavor in refishing.”

Is that when you throw the fish back, then try to catch it again? – Editor

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