Building a Backyard Beehive

Building a Backyard Beehive

Do your part to help the dwindling honeybee population, harvest honey in your own backyard and get some woodworking in to boot. While making this working beehive, you’ll learn how to make your own tapered lap-siding and polish up your general angle-cutting skills. For detailed instructions on the setup and use of your hive, visit backyardhive.com.

BackYardHive’s Mission

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We at the Woodworker’s Journal are pleased and honored to be working with BackYardHive. We support their efforts to help better the bee and pollinator situation. Below, in their own words, is what they are all about (from their website): “Our primary focus is on improving bee ecology and beekeeping methods that respect the honeybee.

Quite unlike other square beehive styles, this version features hanging crossbars to make the honeycombs easy to remove. A viewing window allows you to track the bees’ progress and health, year-round.
Quite unlike other square beehive styles, this version features hanging crossbars to make the honeycombs easy to remove. A viewing window allows you to track the bees’ progress and health, year-round.

Our hope is that by introducing new hobby beekeepers to the rewards of beekeeping there will eventually be backyard beekeepers worldwide who will help bring back the feral bee population and improve the genetic diversity of the honeybees. This diversity is critically important to the survival of this most precious natural resource. Thank you for being a part of the solution and being a part of the growing community of backyard beekeepers we are helping to create at BackYardHive.com.”

Get Your Beekeeping Supplies

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Once you’ve built your beehive and found a good location to place it, you are going to need some supplies — for example, some bees.

We recommend our partner in this project, BackYardHive.com, as a great place to get the stuff you need to put this project into production. They have informational online material that can get you started as well as a nicely produced DVD that walks you through the process. They have supplies for sale and even an online place to ask questions. Here is a short list of “must-haves” our partners recommend:

How-to DVD — demonstrates how to care for bees in your backyard

The Original Hive Tool — key to working the hive, loosening the combs for harvesting

Herding Tool — helps to gently move the bees off the comb without using smoke

Natural Beeswax — used to coat the bars; this encourages the bees to align their combs on the bars

Building the Box

Start the project by laying out and cutting the two hive ends (pieces 1) to shape. Then use one of these workpieces to set your table saw’s blade tilt angle for trimming the top and bottom edges of the hive sides (pieces 2), which also cuts them to width. Then cut the sides to final length. Now chuck a rabbeting bit in your router and rout a 1/2″ x 3/4″ rabbet on each end.

Use one of the hive ends as a guide to set your table saw’s blade angle.
Use one of the hive ends as a guide to set your table saw’s blade angle.

This hive has a viewing window in one of the sides. You can make the window opening’s long cuts on the table saw, carefully raising the blade through the stock at the starting point and then ripping to the stopping point.

Tthen as a reference for marking the hive side pieces before cutting them to final width.
Then as a reference for marking the hive side pieces before cutting them to final width.

Then make the short end cuts with a jigsaw. Or make all four cuts with a jigsaw, if you prefer. Finish it by routing a 1/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet around the inside edge for a glass recess.

Rout a 1/8" x 3/8" rabbet around the inside edge of the window opening to serve as a recess for glass.
Rout a 1/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet around the inside edge of the window opening to serve as a recess for glass.

With that done, trim 1/2″ off of the bottom of one of the hive ends: this gap will be the bees’ entrance. Go ahead and assemble the sides and ends with waterproof glue and stainless steel screws.

Set the hive on the bottom panel, and trace the inside shape
Set the hive on the bottom panel, and trace the inside shape

Next, cut the bottom panel (piece 3) to size and set the hive assembly on it. Trace around the inside. Use this outline as a guide to pre-drill angled pilot holes for attaching the bottom panel to the sides and ends.

Then determine the drilling angle you’ll need for boring pilot holes for the screws
Then determine the drilling angle you’ll need for boring pilot holes for the screws.

If you’d like to round over or chamfer any part of the hive up to this point, now is the time to do it, before attaching the bottom. Then go ahead and install it on the hive with glue and screws.

A sliding bevel gauge makes a handy reference for guiding your drill as you bore countersunk pilot holes for the bottom panel screws.
A sliding bevel gauge makes a handy reference for guiding your drill as you bore countersunk pilot holes for the bottom panel screws.

The end handles, window trim and feet (pieces 4 through 6) come next. Cut them to shape, mitering the ends of the handles, and fasten them all to the hive.

Once you’ve glued and clamped the window trim in place (above), you’ll have enough edge surface to cut and fasten the piano hinge (right) for hanging the window cover.
Once you’ve glued and clamped the window trim in place, you’ll have enough edge surface to cut and fasten the piano hinge for hanging the window cover.

You can also rip and crosscut the window cover (piece 7). Round over and rabbet its ends and top edge, leaving the bottom edge flat for attaching the hinge.

Given the cramped workspace here, leave the window glass off until the cover is attached.
Given the cramped workspace here, leave the window glass off until the cover is attached.

After you’ve cut the hinge (piece 11) to length, fasten it in the window opening, and attach the cover. Make and install the latch block (piece 8) above the window opening, and screw the latch (piece 9) to the window cover. Wrap up by setting the glass (piece 10) into its rabbet with a bead of silicone caulk.

Assembling the Hive’s Lid

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The lid comes next: it fits over the hive and rests on the handles to protect the inner compartment and combs.

Assemble the lid frame and corner blocks with glue, screws and clamps. These blocks fit around the hive handles so the lid rests flat.
Assemble the lid frame and corner blocks with glue, screws and clamps. These blocks fit around the hive handles so the lid rests flat.

Cut the lid frame sides and ends (pieces 12 and 13) to size, and rabbet the ends of the side pieces.

Cut the lid panel to size, then glue it into the rabbets in the frame assembly. The author used pin nails as fasteners.
Cut the lid panel to size, then glue it into the rabbets in the frame assembly. The author used pin nails as fasteners.

Notice in the Drawings that the lid (piece 14) fits down into a top rabbet in the frame.

Seal any gaps around the lid frame and panel with a thick bead silicone caulk, for added insurance against leaks or insect pests.
Seal any gaps around the lid frame and panel with a thick bead silicone caulk, for added insurance against leaks or insect pests.

Rout that 1/4″ x 3/8″ rabbet along the top edge of the four frame pieces, before assembling them with glue, screws and corner blocks (pieces 15). Now bed the lid panel into its rabbet with silicone caulk.

Making the Roof

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The hive’s roof covers the lid and creates a seasonal thermal barrier, plus weatherproofing.

Start the roof lap-siding by making a tilted resaw cut at the band saw to form two siding pieces
Start the roof lap-siding by making a tilted resaw cut at the band saw to form two siding pieces.

I decided to style my roof with some resawn lap-siding (pieces 16) to add a “homey” touch. To make it, start with 3″-wide by 3/4″-thick stock.

Trim the bottom edges at the table saw to square them up again, then rabbet them to form lap joints with a dado blade tipped to 85˚.
Trim the bottom edges at the table saw to square them up again, then rabbet them to form lap joints with a dado blade tipped to 85˚.

With your band saw’s table tilted 5°, resaw the stock, making two almost equal halves. Doing this can be difficult, so set your fence to saw the offcut about 1/32″ thicker. After cutting the first piece, run the offcut through, so it will end up exactly the same.

In two of the lap-siding pieces, rout a narrow groove along the thin, top edge. The author clamped an overly long fence to his router table fence to add bearing support for this operation.
In two of the lap-siding pieces, rout a narrow groove along the thin, top edge. The author clamped an overly long fence to his router table fence to add bearing support for this operation.

When the dust clears, you’ll notice that because of the angle on the siding’s bottom edge, the rough, resawn faces will be the outer faces. To change this angle relationship, rip the bottom edge of each piece with the rough sides face-down and your table saw set at 90°.

Then glue up two roof panels from four siding pieces each, and trim their top edges at 15° where they’ll meet at the roof peak.
Then glue up two roof panels from four siding pieces each, and trim their top edges at 15° where they’ll meet at the roof peak.

Cut off just enough to change the angle. Next, use a dado blade tilted to 85° to cut the rabbet into these bottom siding edges. Leave two pieces un-rabbeted; these will be the bottom edges of the roof. Then cut the siding to finished length.

Lay out the two roof end pieces to create its pitch, then cut these angles at the band saw, freehand. A tapering jig would also work.
Lay out the two roof end pieces to create its pitch, then cut these angles at the band saw, freehand. A tapering jig would also work.

One last step: use a straight bit in your router table to make the 1/4″-wide, 30-1⁄2″-long roof vent cutouts in only the top two pieces.

After you’ve bevel-ripped the top edges of the roof sides and rabbeted their ends, attach them to the roof ends to form a frame.
After you’ve bevel-ripped the top edges of the roof sides and rabbeted their ends, attach them to the roof ends to form a frame.

Most router table fences aren’t long enough for this, as the cutout is longer than the fence. Mine wasn’t long enough, so I clamped a long auxiliary fence with a cutout for the router bit.

Arrange the roof panels for an even overhang on the roof frame. Mount them to the frame with glue and finish nails. Putty over the nail holes, if you like, to fill and hide them.
Arrange the roof panels for an even overhang on the roof frame. Mount them to the frame with glue and finish nails. Putty over the nail holes, if you like, to fill and hide them.

Glue the eight siding pieces into two roof panels, using weights and clamps as necessary to keep the assemblies flat and square. When the glue dries, trim their top edges at 15°, so there’s no gap where they meet at the roof peak.

Bore a 11⁄2"-dia. vent hole through each roof end. The author used a hole saw for this job
Bore a 1-1⁄2″-dia. vent hole through each roof end. The author used a hole saw for this job.

Next, lay out the roof ends (pieces 17), and cut them to finished length. Cut their slopes on the band saw. Now, rip two roof sides (pieces 18), and bevel-rip their top edges to 15°. Cut them to final length.

Staple window screen over these two holes from inside the roof to keep pests and birds out of the interior.
Staple window screen over these two holes from inside the roof to keep pests and birds out of the interior.

After you mill 1/2″ x 3/4″ rabbets on their ends, glue and screw the roof ends and sides into a frame. You’re now ready to install the roof panels with glue and finish nails. Then bore a 1-1⁄2″-dia. vent hole through each roof end, and staple window screen (pieces 22) over them to cover them from inside.

Cut the V-shaped angles into the roof ends at the table saw with the blade tilted to 75°. Make these two cuts incrementally, raising the blade until the inner waste piece falls free.
Cut the V-shaped angles into the roof ends at the table saw with the blade tilted to 75°. Make these two cuts incrementally, raising the blade until the inner waste piece falls free.

The roof has two end blocks (pieces 19). Make their V-shaped cutouts on the table saw. If you have a left-tilting table saw, move the fence to the left side of the blade for this operation.

Glue the roof ends to the roof at its peak. Then reinforce these connections by driving screws up into the roof ends from inside the roof.
Glue the roof ends to the roof at its peak. Then reinforce these connections by driving screws up into the roof ends from inside the roof.

Cut the angles a bit at a time, raising the blade incrementally after each cut. Be sure to cut from both edges before raising the blade. Crosscut the blocks to length, and glue and screw them to the roof.

Fasten the ridge cap to the roof ends with pairs of countersunk screws only — no glue. That way, you can remove it if the ridge vent screen ever needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Fasten the ridge cap to the roof ends with pairs of countersunk screws only — no glue. That way, you can remove it if the ridge vent screen ever needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Install screen (piece 22) over the ridge vent with screen retainer strips (pieces 21) and staples. Wrap up the roof by attaching the ridge cap to the roof ends with countersunk screws.

Machining the Top Bars

Cut the non-through end angles on the top bars at the table saw. Use your miter gauge and a stop block to control these cuts. Tilt the saw blade to 45°.
Cut the non-through end angles on the top bars at the table saw. Use your miter gauge and a stop block to control these cuts. Tilt the saw blade to 45°.

The 24 top bars (pieces 23) lie across the hive and form attachment points for the bees to make individual hanging combs. To build the bars, start with 1-3⁄8″-square billets that are cut to the final length. Cut the non-through end angles at the table saw using a miter gauge equipped with a long fence and a stop block for accuracy. Trim off this waste at the band saw to form a lapped end.

Trim the waste pieces free at the band saw to complete the “lapped” ends of the cross bars. It’s a faster, safer method than using a tenoning jig at the table saw.
Trim the waste pieces free at the band saw to complete the “lapped” ends of the cross bars. It’s a faster, safer method than using a tenoning jig at the table saw.

Set up for drilling the bars’ top holes by making three 1-1⁄4″-wide spacers. Clamp a stop on the drill press for the end hole. Drill the first hole and then slip a spacer between the stop and the bar’s end for each successive hole.

Cutting the bars’ long angled sides is tricky, but with the proper setup, it needn’t be dangerous. You could easily make the first cut with the point facing down, but the second cut would be impossible. Instead, you’ll need to cut the bars with the point facing up. Again, if you have a left-tilting saw, move the fence to the left side of the blade.

A stop block clamped to the drill press table, and three spacers, make it easy to drill the top bars’ three through holes so they’re evenly spaced.
A stop block clamped to the drill press table, and three spacers, make it easy to drill the top bars’ three through holes so they’re evenly spaced.

You’ll need three essential items to make these cuts: a zero-clearance insert (with its slot cut through at the same angle that you’re cutting), a featherboard and a push block. The zero-clearance insert and push block are job-specific but worth the added measure of safety. Without the zero-clearance insert, the offcuts will slide down between the blade and the throatplate’s opening, causing a dangerous binding situation. If your blade doesn’t lower far enough to allow an uncut throatplate to seat completely, groove the throatplate’s underside where it contacts the blade, allowing it to fully seat. Then raise the blade through the throatplate while it’s pinned down by the rip fence.

To create the long beveled edges on the top bars, the author used a special push block that fits around the top bar blanks and holds their lapped ends down against the saw table. It has a cutout area in the middle to accommodate the taller part of the upturned bars. Two cuts, with the saw blade tipped to 551⁄2° and passing through a zero-clearance throatplate, did the job.
To create the long beveled edges on the top bars, the author used a special push block that fits around the top bar blanks and holds their lapped ends down against the saw table. It has a cutout area in the middle to accommodate the taller part of the upturned bars. Two cuts, with the saw blade tipped to 55-1⁄2° and passing through a zero clearance throatplate, did the job.

The push block has two “feet” that hold down the thin lapped ends of the bars (see top center photo). Trim the feet to the same width as the bars, so that they don’t interfere with the featherboard. The block’s middle is cut out so that it bridges the taller part of the upturned bar. As you feed the stock, the blade becomes housed within the block.

Now that you’ve got all of your safety equipment ready, bevel-rip one side of each bar, then spin it end-for end in the push block to trim the other side.

Each top bar receives a narrow vent, milled at the router table, along one edge. These vents provide air circulation between the combs but are thin enough to prevent the bees from crawling through.
Each top bar receives a narrow vent, milled at the router table, along one edge. These vents provide air circulation between the combs but are thin enough to prevent the bees from crawling through.

Next, make a slight roundover along both top edges of each bar. The roundover makes it easier to insert a tool that’s used to separate the bars when they’re in the hive and coated with wax. The final step for the bars is to rout a 3/32″-wide, 4-3⁄4″-long vent on one side of each bar. When you set the bars in place in the hive, it creates a gap that’s too small for the bees to crawl through. The false back panel and top bar (pieces 24 and 25) are your last things to build. Rout a 1/4″ groove along the top bar for the panel, and just glue them together.

Apply a finish if you like, to the exterior only. The best choice is a natural finish , so it doesn’t affect the bees or the honey. Now assemble the hive and order some bees!

Click Here to download a PDF of the related drawings.

Hard to Find Supplies

Stainless Steel Piano Hinge #32611
Feed-N-Wax® Wood Polish and Conditioner #24545

Help our Pollinators

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Pollinators are in trouble — and that is not good news for those of us who like to eat! (Or for the environment or life on earth in general.) Recent studies and news stories report that honeybee and Monarch butterfly populations are in steep decline. The list of challenges for these essential insects is long: not enough forage (they are starving), pesticides, pollution, mites and other parasites — it is no bed of roses, literally. One bit of good news is that everyday folks are now starting to step up to try to reverse the trends that are hurting our pollinators. Below are just a few good websites (there are many more) for you to check out if you’d like to be a part of the solution.

http://www.backyardhive.com/

http://www.fws.gov/pollinators/PollinatorPages/YourHelp.html

http://www.xerces.org/bringbackthepollinators/

http://baselandscape.com/portfolio/pollinator-boulevard

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